[djt1963]

I have a Roper dryer by Whirlpool Coporation
Heavy Duty
Extra Large Capacity
6 cycle / 3 temperature
Model: RED4340SQ1
Serial #: MU4980113
Type: D433-RLE-2406026-FM54

About 5 days ago the timer quit working on my dryer. I would turn the dryer on & it just kept going - I found this out by waking up in the middle of the night & it was still going.

Yesterday it quit blowing warm air. You can tell air is blowing & it is oscillating just fine. It just cool air.

I am a single mom & can't afford a new dryer at this point.
I am fairly handy - any suggestions on repairing

djt1963

[123laundry]

unplug the machine for a day, turn back on see if it would finish its cycle. take the timer out and clean it, put it back and see what happens. Also see if there is a way for you to advance the timer manualy to starting position.

[123laundry]

unplug the machine for a day, turn back on see if it would finish its cycle. take the timer out and clean it, put it back and see what happens. Also see if there is a way for you to advance the timer manualy to starting position.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4340SQ1 29`` ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

Before pulling the timer you may want to try the following.

Put the unit into an auto cycle, let it run and see if the timer advances.
I am guessing when it ran that night it was in an auto cycle.
Now put it in a timed dry cycle and let it run.
If the timer now advances then odds are your timer is OK.

In timed dry mode the timer motor get power directly from the lie through Timer Switch 0 contacts TM to WB.

In an auto mode it gets power through heating coil and Timer Switch 0 contacts TM to OR but only when the heating coil is off.

So if the heating coil blows (opens) the timer will not advance.

From your post I believe the unit still gave heat but would not shut off and now there is also no heat.

If this is the case it could be that the heater was grounded and it has now either blown or has blown the thermal cut-off (Item 6 in Section 3).
May also be that you have lost half the line.
If the timer advances in a timed dry mode your power is OK.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may has sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.