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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2008, 02:34 PM
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Default Dryer
Model Number: LGQ8000JQ4   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Dryer Runs Fine But Has No Heat Gas Is On

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2008, 10:44 AM
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Perform the troubleshooting as described in one of our previous posts: No Heat on Gas Dryer

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LGQ8000JQ4

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Old 06-30-2011, 12:48 PM
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I'm having this same problem with a Whirlpool lgq8000jq4. I've got the back open but I don't know what is which - Thermal fuse, Cycling thermostat, Igniter, Flame sensor and Gas valve coils.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:43 PM
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The thermal fuse is shown as #7 on the diagram while the cycling thermostat is #9 and the flame sensor is #49.

The igniter and the coils are shown as #4, #13 & #14 on the diagram.

You have to click on the link posted in the previous reply and read it through for more information.

- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867



- The cycling thermostat Part number: AP3045874

Part number: AP3045874



- The igniter Part number: AP3094138

Part number: AP3094138



- The flame sensor Part number: AP2910747

Part number: AP2910747



- The coil kit Part number: AP3094251

Part number: AP3094251




Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LGQ8000JQ4 29"GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 06-30-2011, 02:30 PM
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I can tell that no flame is igniting when it runs. Does that narrow the culprit or would all 5 of these cause that problem? I don't have an ohmeter and I'm trying to diagnose without one :/
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:51 PM
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You can not perform any reliable diagnostic by guessing. You can buy a simple ohmmeter for about $10 and save much more.

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Old 07-02-2011, 10:56 AM
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I'll pick one up today and give it a shot. Thanks for your good advice.
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:05 PM
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.

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Old 07-04-2011, 09:50 AM
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Okay, so I feel like I don't really know what I'm doing with the multimeter, but here is what I find. The fuse has continuity (my meter beeps when I touch the leads to where the plugs go). The thermostat has 4 wires, two on the long sides and two on the back (the two on the back are closest to the red thing). The long sides have continuity, but the back does not. Does this indicate that the thermostat is bad? Are those two supposed to have continuity?
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Old 07-05-2011, 01:30 PM
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Did you disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse before you test it?

The cycling thermostat should have continuity between the large terminals and you should not test the small terminals.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

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