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I am having the same problem. Just contacted Whirlpool because I couldn't find a diagram either. go to whirlpool.com type

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Old 06-14-2010, 01:20 PM
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I am having the same problem. Just contacted Whirlpool because I couldn't find a diagram either. go to whirlpool.com type in model numer go to consumer then down to parts--you will be able to find the full 5 page diagram of your dryer.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:47 AM
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what do you mean open
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by trixiefaircloth View Post
what do you mean open
"Open" used in regards of a fuse or any of a such electrical parts means "No continuity" or infinite resistance.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

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Old 07-29-2011, 03:20 PM
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Gene; In your reply to Vonda, you list three parts to check continuity for. I was able to ID the Whirlpool equivalent parts which all show continuity on my dryer, but there is one thermostat part on the Whirlpool that was not on the list. In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922). The latter shows continuity on my dryer but the former does not. Should it?

Thanks
mallisonb


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Hi Vonda,

The piece you are talking about is a timer resistor. It has nothing to do with the heating problem.

There are three parts which you have to check for continuity:

The hi-limit thermostat (#3 on the break down diagram).

The thermal fuse (#5 on the break down diagram).

The cycling thermostat (#14 on the break down diagram).

If any of these parts is open - it has to be replaced.

- The part number for the hi-limit thermostat is AP311455

- The part number for the thermal fuse (including the hi-limit thermostat) is AP415996

- The part number for the cycling thermostat is AP311676

Gene.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mallisonb View Post
Gene; In your reply to Vonda, you list three parts to check continuity for. I was able to ID the Whirlpool equivalent parts which all show continuity on my dryer, but there is one thermostat part on the Whirlpool that was not on the list. In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922). The latter shows continuity on my dryer but the former does not. Should it?

Thanks
mallisonb
What is the complete model number of the dryer?

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Old 07-29-2011, 04:12 PM
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LG5796XPWO



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What is the complete model number of the dryer?

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Old 07-29-2011, 05:43 PM
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Your mistake is that you tried to use instructions for the electric dryer while having problems with the gas dryer. The troubleshooting is different for those dryers.

The fist thing you may want to check for continuity is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram). If this fuse is open, replace the cycling thermostat as well and clean the dryer vent line.


Quote:
...In the AppliancePartsPros.com website, its listed simply as Thermostat (part no. AP3134945) and it fits together with the cycling thermostat (AP3115922)...
This part is actually a heater. The normal resistance reading should be between 5000 Ohms and 9000 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, replace it too.



There are two different thermal fuses listed for this dryer by Whirlpool (weird), so you have to determine which one is used in your dryer before order any.

- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867



- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3133489

Part number: AP3133489



- The cycling thermostat Part number: AP3115922

Part number: AP3115922



- The thermostat heater Part number: AP3134945

Part number: AP3134945



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5796XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
P.S. You can find some useful information in one of our previous threads: No Heat on Gas Dryer
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:20 PM
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Gene; I read the thread you sent me (No Heat on Gas Dryer) and checked out all the parts (including the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat). They all have continuity but inconsistencies I ran into are as follows:

1. The thermostat heater had a resistance of 3,670 ohms versus the minimum of 5,000, so I will replace that

2. The secondary coil had a resistance between the 1 & 2 terminals of 1398 ohms, slightly higher than the spec of 1365 +/- 25 ohms, so I will probably replace both coils considering the price. Not mentioned in the thread was continuity between the 2 & 3 terminals. I got a resistance of 1975 ohms. Is that significant or even relevant?

3. The Ignitor has continuity but it has a resistance of 94.4 ohms. Is that normal? When I cut on the dryer, it glows and the burner lights so it appears to be functional.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Your mistake is that you tried to use instructions for the electric dryer while having problems with the gas dryer. The troubleshooting is different for those dryers.

The fist thing you may want to check for continuity is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram). If this fuse is open, replace the cycling thermostat as well and clean the dryer vent line.




This part is actually a heater. The normal resistance reading should be between 5000 Ohms and 9000 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, replace it too.



There are two different thermal fuses listed for this dryer by Whirlpool (weird), so you have to determine which one is used in your dryer before order any.

- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867



- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3133489

Part number: AP3133489



- The cycling thermostat Part number: AP3115922

Part number: AP3115922



- The thermostat heater Part number: AP3134945

Part number: AP3134945



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5796XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
P.S. You can find some useful information in one of our previous threads: No Heat on Gas Dryer
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mallisonb View Post
...When I cut on the dryer, it glows and the burner lights so it appears to be functional...
So far this is the first description on the problem with the dryer you posted.

I'm assuming that the actual problem is that the flame does not come on every time when the igniter is on. If this is correct then the problem is a bad gas valve coils (most likely) or a bad gas valve itself (very rare).

So, the solution is to replace the gas valve coils.

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Old 08-04-2011, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
So far this is the first description on the problem with the dryer you posted.

I'm assuming that the actual problem is that the flame does not come on every time when the igniter is on. If this is correct then the problem is a bad gas valve coils (most likely) or a bad gas valve itself (very rare).

So, the solution is to replace the gas valve coils.

Gene.
Gene;
Got the coils and the thermostat heater in yesterday. Measured the continuity and resistance and found no continuity on the latter at any range on the resistance meter (and yes I do have the probes plugged into the right holes). Just wanted to get verification from you that I recieved a faulty part before I contact a customer service.

Thanks
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