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rolandvz71  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 30, 2011 9:23:57 AM(UTC)
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rolandvz71

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Got as problem w/a electric dryer

Whirlpool # LEN2000PW0

It will turn, blow cold air BUT not heat.

This is what I checked continuity so far….

1.Thermal fuse heater --good
2. Thermal fuse motor --good
3.Hi limit thermostat--good
4. Cycling thermostat--good
5. Heater is 10Ω--good
6. Timer motor 2.4KΩ--good



This is what I checked voltage so far….

1.Thermal fuse heater 120v across and 120v to ground each side
2. Thermal fuse motor 120v across and 120v to ground each side
3.Hi limit thermostat 120v across and 120v to ground each side
4. Cycling thermostat 120v across and 120v to ground each side
5. Heater is 10Ω 120v across and 120v to ground each side
6. Timer motor 2.4KΩ 120v across and 120v to ground one side other side was less than 5v

How can I check the centrifugal switch on the motor?
Door switch seem to work I open the door the dryer stops…close the door dryer fires up w/no heat

I received the dryer w/no drawing!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 3:54:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000PW0 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram, see the attachment.

Have you checked that the unit is getting 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Also checking to Neutral or earth ground is really not telling you anything as the heater does not use neutral and you cannot tell if you are seeing the L1 or the L2 side.

If you have the 240 volts, I would unplug the unit and check the Timer Switch 1 BK to AH with the timer set mid cycle.
Be sure to disconnect one side to ensure you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.
File Attachment(s):
LEN2000.pdf (259kb) downloaded 12 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
rolandvz71  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 5:51:26 AM(UTC)
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rolandvz71

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yes I am getting 220v to the unit
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 7:32:51 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I thought you had probably checked it but thought it best to check.

Centrifugal switch can be checked by measuring from the non thermostatted side of the heater (right hand side on the wiring diagram) to L2. Probably pick that up off the terminal strip.
A set of clips on for your meter leads would be useful here.
I personally hate trying to hold leads on to test points with the machine shaking.
Especially when messing with 240 volts.

With the unit set to a mid cycle you should see 240 volts.
When the motor is running it should drop to 0.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
rolandvz71  
#5 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 9:25:20 AM(UTC)
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rolandvz71

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Yes I am getting 120v from centrifugal switch
denman  
#6 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 3:28:23 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Something is very strange.

You should not be able to get 120 on the heater circuit as it is only connected to 240 volts.
You will see 120 if you have one meter lead on Neutral or earth ground (frame) as you will measure either L1 or L2.
So if your leads are only on the heater circuit then only 240 or 0 is possible.

If there is 120 across the centrifugal switch then there must be something shorted to ground in the heater circuit.

Unplug the unit and both wires to the heating coil.
Then measure form each side to the case/frame.
Both should be infinite ohms (open).
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