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If i'm only getting 120 to the heating element does that mean the timer is shot?

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Old 01-27-2011, 01:21 PM
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If i'm only getting 120 to the heating element does that mean the timer is shot?

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Old 01-27-2011, 02:55 PM
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Did you check the circuit breakers?

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

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Old 01-27-2011, 02:56 PM
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If it is a 208/230 element you should be getting 208 volts across both terminals. Start backtracking from each side of the element - sometimes there is a "fusable link" that fails - its a small wire with a little ball in the center of it.

If you see one of those, disconnect it and check continuity through it - if you don't get any reading, it's probably bad.

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If i'm only getting 120 to the heating element does that mean the timer is shot?
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:30 PM
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Did you check the circuit breakers?

What is the complete model number of the dryer?

Gene.
Its a Maytag LDE412
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:58 PM
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Its a Maytag LDE412
Pull the dryer out of the wall. Remove the terminal block cover. While the dryer is off and the power cord is plugged into the wall outlet, check the voltage between the Red and the White wires and between the Black and the White wires at the terminal block. It suppose to be 120 VAC on each pair. Then check the voltage between the Red and the Black wires. The normal reading suppose to be 240 VAC.

If any of the readings is incorrect, there is a problem with the house power.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG LDE412 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 01-27-2011, 05:39 PM
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House power is fine. Other dryers work fine on the same recepticial.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:42 PM
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House power is fine. Other dryers work fine on the same recepticial.
When it was last time you had an other dryer hooked up to the same outlet?


Can you describe in details how did you check the voltage to the heating element?

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Old 10-21-2013, 11:46 AM
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I had a similar problem where I was getting 120 volts at the heater element and everything else check good (I had continuity thru the limit switches and the heater element)

I finally solved the problem by tracing the voltage throughout the dryer. I had 120 volts before the high limit switch and 120 volts at the heater element but they were not combing. I bypassed the high limit switch to see what happened and I had 240 volts at the heating element. I then bought a replacement high limit switch (it was a kit with both sensors) and the problem was permanently solved. I now have 240 volts at the heater element. The high limit switch had continuity but it also had a ohm reading around 500. The appliance part guy said it partially failed and that it was enough to be causing my problem.

I just know that my dryer now works. Before the fix the max drum temperature was 130 degree and now the drum temperature gets up to 170 degrees (measured with digital infrared thermometer after 5 minutes of running with a empty dryer).

Hope this helps someone.

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House power is fine. Other dryers work fine on the same recepticial.
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