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Estate Whirlpool gas dryer not hot enough

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My Estate Whirlpool gas dryer (model: TGDS840PQ1) has to be run through 3 or 4 times to get the clothes

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Old 01-10-2011, 07:16 PM
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Default Estate Whirlpool gas dryer not hot enough
Model Number: TGDS840PQ1   Brand: Estate   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My Estate Whirlpool gas dryer (model: TGDS840PQ1) has to be run through 3 or 4 times to get the clothes dry at least. I looked though the "peephole" on the front and it turns the burner on on both Auto-sense and Timed drying but it goes out within a few minutes. It does feel "kind of" hot at the end of the cycle but it never is as hot as it's supposed to be so it's supposed to be so it never seems to dry.

I need to see how to open the dryer to test and which parts I should be testing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2011, 04:52 AM
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First thing you want to check is, to be sure the vent is clear to the outside. It sounds like it is because you said the gas stayed on for 2 minutes, which leads me to believe that you need to replace the coils on the gas valve, because the secondary coil is malfunctioning. To do that, you need to unplug the dryer, and then pull the filter out of the dryer, and right where you pull the filter out is 2 phillip head screws. Remove them. Then we need to pop up the top of the dryer so we can take the front off. So, about three inchs from the right side, slide a putty knife under the top, and you will hit a plastic clip that will release the top on that side. Do the same on the other side. Then lift the top up, and you will rest it on the back wall. Now we need to take the front off. If you look inside the front panel of the dryer, about 6 inches down on the right side, and the left side, there is a 5/16 screw. Remove them. The top will be release. Then, you need to unplug the molex plug that goes to the door switch, so we can remove the front. Sometimes it could be a pain. Once that is done. I want you to grab the top of the front on the left side, and then pull up hard and quick, and that will release the bottom of the panel, from the front of the cabinet on the left side. Do the same on the right side. Now you can get to the gas valve. To replace the coils, you need to take the 2 phillip head screw out of the bracket, but first unplug the wires going to the coils. Then remove the screws and the bracket. Once you remove the bracket, take the old coil off, and then put the new one on in the same position, and do the same to the other. Because the bracket will only fit flush, if the top of the coils sit in the bracket properly. Then put the clamp back on, and the wires, and then put the dryer back together. That should do it. Tom Appliance Educator, Appliance Parts, Washer and Dryer Parts, Refridgerator and Freezer Parts, Stove and Oven Parts
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:40 AM
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Default New data

Thanks Tom! I was able to use your instructions to take apart the dryer really easy. Thanks!

I had cleaned out the vent and pipe but decided to clean everything so it is totally lint-free now. I decided to time the flame and wanted to check to see if you think it is still the secondary coil with this new data.

On the "More Dry" setting the burner stays on for 1:30 min then goes off. THEN it follows the sequence below until the cycle is over:
Burner ON for 26 seconds...OFF for 1:16 min, ON for 26 seconds, OFF for 1:16 min, etc. It does feel hot but not as hot as normal I don't think and the close are always damp.

On the "Timed Dry" setting it followed the sequence below:
Burner ON for 1:18 min, OFF for 58 seconds, ON for 43 seconds, OFF for 59 seconds, ON for 17 seconds, then the burner "barely" glowed for probably 10 seconds...then seemed to follow a OFF for 1:03 and ON for 14 for awhile.

Also, my wife reminded me that just a few weeks ago the Timer would not move on the "More Dry" setting so she had to use the Timed dry right before this mess started. Now it seems to work but not sure if maybe it is the culprit.

Do you still think it is the secondary coil or does this new information point to something else? Just checking before I buy the coil.
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:19 PM
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Dude, for 25 bucks, replace the coils on the gas valve, if you are 100 percent positive the vent is clear. Tom ********************************************
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:41 PM
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Default Replaced coils but no luck

I ended up ordering the kit that contained both coils so I replaced both with new ones but have the same issue. I had a friend of mine suggest the "flame sensor" so seeing if that is a valid next step. The burner times did seem to change though so putting them here and seeing what you think is a valid next step...What should I try?

More Dry: On 14 sec, OFF 1:02, ON 14 sec, OFF 1:06, etc.
Times Dry On 16 sec, OFF 1:09, ON 16 Sec, OFF 1:12, etc.
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:34 AM
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I am suspecting it to be the high limit thermostat. That is the round part sitting on top of the burner housing, where the flame comes out. If you continuity check it, it will show fine. But it might not be sensing the temperature properly. So here is what I want you to do. Unplug the dryer, and then take the 2 wires off of the high limit thermostat, and put the wire terminal ends together, and put some tape around the terminal ends to keep them together, and to be sure you have totally covered the terminals. We don't want the metal terminal ends to hit metal. So basically we are jumping out the high limit thermostat. So know, I want you to plug the dryer in and turn on the heat, and see if the heat stays on longer. If so, do not run the dryer with the thermostat jumped out. This is for testing reasons only. Let me know what you find. Tom ********************************************
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:38 AM
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Oh, on addressing the flame sensor. If it were the flame sensor, it usually would give you the symptom of the ignitor not lighting. If it is not the high limit thermostat. It could be the cycling thermostat, located on the back side of the dryer on the blower housing.. Tom ********************************************
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:25 PM
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Default high limit thermo did same thing

I am hoping I haven't ruined this dang thing....Since the "initial" burn lasts for 1:40'ish I first let it run until it turned off. Then unplugged and wired the wires together and turned it back on...it only ran for 20 seconds and turned back off. So then I started to test the "thermal shutoff" switch that is right by that high limit switch. I shorted it out and it seemed to work great. It would burn for over a minute then off for 40 seconds or so...then back on, etc. I started to babysit a load to prove that switch was the issue and the dang wire touched metal and tripped the breaker. I had it taped but there was a tiny spot between the wire and my tape that was able to touch the termanal. I reset the breaker but now I can't get the burner to come back on for anything...even when I put everything back the way it was. Sheesh! Please tell me there is a fuse to check?

Last edited by Remi32 : 01-18-2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 01-19-2011, 04:57 AM
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Yes there is. Unplug the dryer, and take the big back panel off, and you will see a white part, that is an inch and a half long, by a half inch wide. It will have two wires coming to it. Take the 2 wires off of it, and tape them together. Make SURE the terminals are covered!!! LOL!!!! Just jacking with ya!!! Your close Man!!! Then plug it in, and see if the dryer works. Make sure you replace the thermal fuse. It is a saftey!!! Let me know how it goes!! Tom ********************************************
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:40 AM
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After I posted that last night (so frustrated at myself, lol) I read about that fuse so I checked the continuity and it was fine. So then this morning I checked the continuity on the high limit thermostat and it was open...but the thermal shutoff switch was closed. So I re-jumped the high-limit and everything started working again but where it shuts off too soon. Sooo then I rejumped both the high-limit and the thermal shutoff and then it burned for 4 minutes until I shut if off because I was worried.

I "think" my original problem is that thermal shutoff switch was malfunctioning...but then I blew out the high-limit switch so now both of them need to be replaced. What do you think? I sure am learning a ton about these dryers lol. I have never checked continutity on anything before, lol.
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