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I first thought I needed to replace the bulb, but the entire dryer has no power. There is power at the outlet, and I remove the lint at each cycle. Also, the dryer is in the basement, up against an outside wall, so the vent hose is less than 8 feet long, so I can't imagine it's backed up lint that tripped the thermal fuse. I welcome your thoughts. Thank you!:confused:
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From your post I am assuming that before this problem the interior light worked.
[COLOR="Blue"]There is power at the outlet, [/COLOR]
Did you measure this with a meter?
Did you just check for 240 or did you also check for the two 120 legs?
You need 120 to run the light and the motor.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
If power is OK then the door switch becomes the most likely culprit. |
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I am sure you need a dryer for Christmas, so, take off the back panel of the dryer, and you will see a white part, an inch and a half long, by a half inch wide. That is the thermal fuse. Take the two wires off, and put the terminal ends of the wires together, and then put some tape around it, so it does not hit metal, and then plug the dryer in and see if it comes on. You really shouldn't use the dryer with it jumped, out, but as long as you hang around, and be sure it does not overheat, it will do till tomorrow. Tom www.appliancededucator.com
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Thank you all for your feedback. Still a no-go; am annotating my comments in green for your review. Originally Posted by: denman  From your post I am assuming that before this problem the interior light worked. Correct
There is power at the outlet,
Did you measure this with a meter? Yes, but only with the KleinTools NCVT-1 voltage tester (looks like a fat crayon - just beeps and flashes red when live wire found).
Did you just check for 240 or did you also check for the two 120 legs?
You need 120 to run the light and the motor. Per above, the voltage tester just beeps/flashes; I will have to purchase a multimeter after Xmas to get an actual voltage.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Tried, but no
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts Awaits purchase of multimeter
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out Removed small panel at back; all 3 wires are well fastened/screwed into the dryer
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
If power is OK then the door switch becomes the most likely culprit. Can a bad door switch prevent both the light AND the machine from working (pls forgive my ignorance as I am new at this)
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One more question: are there two fuses in this dryer (ie a thermal and a "regular" one for electric overload) or just the one thermal? When you mean remove the panel, you're referring to the main large panel, not the little one near the top/back? Thanks Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy I am sure you need a dryer for Christmas, so, take off the back panel of the dryer, and you will see a white part, an inch and a half long, by a half inch wide. That is the thermal fuse. Take the two wires off, and put the terminal ends of the wires together, and then put some tape around it, so it does not hit metal, and then plug the dryer in and see if it comes on. You really shouldn't use the dryer with it jumped, out, but as long as you hang around, and be sure it does not overheat, it will do till tomorrow. Tom www.appliancededucator.com
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So, 2 fuses, or just 1 in the dryer? Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER8620PW1 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Green"]Can a bad door switch prevent both the light AND the machine from working (pls forgive my ignorance as I am new at this)[/COLOR] Nothing to forgive. Yes it can. Th common on the switch goes to Neutral. The Normally Closed contact goes to the light. Turning the light on when the door is open. The Normally Open contact goes to the motor. Letting the motor start/run when the door is closed. FYI: Just in case you have not run into NO and NC terminology. Normally Closed contacts are closed (shorted) when the switch is just sitting there. Normally Open contacts are closed when the switch is activated. Common is common to both. I think, that on this unit the thermal fuse is after the door switch and light that is why I think it is a power or door switch problem. There is only one thermal fuse that will stop the motor from running it is Item 7 in Section 3. The thermal cutoff (Fuse) (Item 9 in Section 3) cuts power to the heater only. |
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Thank you Denman for your detailed reply. Not home until tonight, but will investigate further then.
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With a household of laundry to do, wife needed this fixed NOW, so I bet on the $18 door switch locally and that was the fix. Next time, when I have more lead time, I'll be happy to order from you, as I very much apreciate your responses.
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