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Maytag gas dryer won´t heat, igniter receiving no voltage, other parts OK

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Have already checked all electrical parts involving the heating process as described within this helpful forum. Hi limit Thermostat continuity

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Old 11-23-2008, 09:20 AM
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Smile Solved! Maytag gas dryer won´t heat, igniter receiving no voltage, other parts OK
Model Number: MDG7400AW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Have already checked all electrical parts involving the heating process as described within this helpful forum.

Hi limit Thermostat continuity OK
Cycling Thermostat continuity OK
Igniter (114 ohm) OK. this is a new one because in the first place suspected of failure because of too low ohm reading.
Flame sensor continuity OK
Gas valve coils
coil with 2 terminals 1266 ohm
coil with 3 terminals 1358 ohm across left and middle, 553 ohm across left and right

Adittional voltage readings during operation:

input voltage: 122 v AC
voltage reading at igniter connector: 0.3 v AC (drum working, hi heat setting). This same voltage has been tracked up to the input at the "temp switch" and up to the corresponding output at the timer connector. This reading changes to 10 v AC when not operating the dryer.

Already checked gas line up to the dryer connection.

Any help please. Could it be some component on the upper control panel, lets say timer?

Thank you.

Erwin.


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Last edited by erwin68 : 12-16-2008 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Solved!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2008, 10:11 AM
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After reading similar treads I also checked thermal fuse and continuity is OK.

Any help would be very appreciated.
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Old 11-27-2008, 07:09 AM
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how do i check for a bad timer?

timer motor seems ok since it runs and eventually it stops
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:52 AM
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bump .
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:28 PM
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Narrowing only two options now:

Bad timer or a bad switch motor.

Anyone can explain how to check failure on any of these?

Thank you.

Erwin
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:00 PM
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Smile SOLVED! Maytag gas dryer won´t heat, igniter receiving no voltage, other parts OK

Finally Fixed!

It comes out to be a bad timer.

But how to check for a bad timer?

First of all you will have to check for every other part and you need to follow sticky threads within this very helpful forum:

How To Check Dryer Parts For Continuity

Dryer Parts

Once you are positivley shure there is no bad coils, igniter, thermostat, sensor nor thermal fuse then you can asume there may be a bad motor switch or a bad timer.

You will also need a wiring diagram (which you could also find within this site or inside the dryer's control panel)

Remember we are dealing with a dryer that works everything but not drying which also means no heat. Drum works fine, timer motor works fine (starts the dryer and eventually stops) but at the end laundry is still wet.

Before anything else, disconnect appliance from power.

Open the control panel.

On the back of the timer, check for continuity between the black wire and the red with black stripe wire ( black wire comes directly from hot appliance power plug, red with black stripe wire goes directly to temperature switch/selector) while you turn the timer in the push position, it should sometimes connect and other disconnect while you turn timer dial.
When it tests closed for continuity you stop turning timer dial and check for resistance among those two terminals.
Ideally it should read 0 ohm but you may read from few ohm to tens or hundreds ohm.
The higher the reading the bad for the timer, terminals may be dirty or carbonized. The higher the reading means lower voltage goes thru then circuits noit working properly and (very important) it is not enough for the igniter to light up.
Now you may change bad timer.

I ended up opening the timer (which is not to dificult) but reassembling it is a very tricky procedure, there are many small plastic moving parts which has a specific possition and you have to figure out where they go because once you open the timer they jump all over the place and you are not able to see their original places.
Befor opening timer be shure to have a source where you can get an exact replacement or a compatible one.

After opening timer, clean the inside part that makes the connection when touching each other. This was made using a small erraser (pencil erraser) and verifying the terminals stays in the correct position and closing circuit when they touch each other before reassembling timer.

Opening and fixing timer may not last longer or may not resolve the issue since it may not be the only bad part involved.

Aplying this procedure for a different dryer model/make may require analyze wiring diagram to locate correct timer terminals to test, but if it is of some use, in my case it is the thickest two terminals that comes out from the timer once you disconnect the multi-terminal plastic connector.

Many thanks to the people who maintain this site which provides many useful resources.
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Old 01-09-2009, 12:25 PM
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Default flame sensor

I am replacing my flame sensor on My estsate gas dryer has the sensore has two prongs on prong has a red mark the other does not. There are two wires one white one blue I was wondering what wire went where the model number is TGDS740JQ1. Please help!
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