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Hello everyone, I'm at my wits end with this. I have a Whirlpool Gold dryer (model # GEQ9800PW2), and it

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Old 12-21-2010, 10:43 AM
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Unhappy Same as most topics...dryer won't start
Model Number: GEQ9800PW2   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello everyone,

I'm at my wits end with this.

I have a Whirlpool Gold dryer (model # GEQ9800PW2), and it won't start at all. The timer motor is doing something, and I can see rotation, but nothing will start. There is no humming or anything other than the clicks when the timer knob is turned and when the push-to-start button resets internally. Here are the tasks that were performed:

* Cleaned lint out of internal workings of the cabinet, vents, etc.

* Verified that 220V coming into dryer where cable and dryer connect.

* Continuity checks (NOTE: With all of these continuity checks, I removed one wire to avoid a false reading.):
  • Checked continuity on the push-to-start switch (pass).
  • Checked continuity on the door switch (pass).
  • Checked continuity on the thermal fuse (pass).
  • Checked continuity on the cycling thermostat (pass).
  • Checked continuity on the hi-limit thermostat (pass).
  • Checked continuity on the thermal cutoff (pass).

Not 100% sure on how to check the timer, but I guess that's the next thing I'll try to figure out.

Any other suggestions? What am I missing?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:59 AM
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It sounds like either the timer isn't sending the power to the motor; or you have a bad motor. Here's some information on testing motors that may be of some help.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Motor testing.pdf (76.3 KB, 10 views)

Last edited by magician59 : 12-21-2010 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:03 PM
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Thanks for the information. That helped me check out the motor. If I was doing everything correctly, it appears that the motor checks out as well. It may very well be the timer causing the problem. I'll have to look into that as a possibility.

I don't know if this helps thinking of what may have happened, but when it first started to fail on me, my wife said that the dryer wouldn't come on. I unplugged it for about 20 seconds, moved some dials, and plugged it back in. Mysteriously, it worked for another day. The next day, however, we weren't as fortunate. It was done with. It never came back on, but like I mentioned earlier, the wheel on the back of the timer unit continues to rotate when on.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:28 PM
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Timer contacts that should close during a cycle are BU to BK.
Note: BK is actually L1 side of power in., one of the BU's goes to the push to start contact.
Contacts T to W also have to close

When checking the push to start relay are you sure you checked the relay contacts and not the coil.

Only the thermal fuse on the blower will effect the motor start. All other thermostats etc are only for the heating coil.

When you checked the components for continuity did you remove the wire from one side of the device. Just to be sure you did not measure an alternate/parallel circuit path.

You said that you checked for 240 volts but did you check that you had 120 volts, L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral. The motor uses 120 volts and you may have lost Neutral.
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Timer contacts that should close during a cycle are BU to BK.
Note: BK is actually L1 side of power in., one of the BU's goes to the push to start contact.
Contacts T to W also have to close
Thanks for the information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
When checking the push to start relay are you sure you checked the relay contacts and not the coil.
I must admit, electricity is not my speciality, so please forgive me for my ignorance on some of this stuff. The push-to-start switch did give me some confusion. Refer to the image that I attached to this reply. It has my test results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Only the thermal fuse on the blower will effect the motor start. All other thermostats etc are only for the heating coil.
Yes, I know, but I went ahead and tested everything that I could since I had the dryer open. You know, being a man feeling like he's done something great by having everything disassembled just to look over his shoulder and see his wife and children in disbelief that Dad will ever get it back together again. Kids thought it was something great to see Dad testing continuity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
When you checked the components for continuity did you remove the wire from one side of the device. Just to be sure you did not measure an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Yes I did. I read about that and watched several YouTube videos before taking on the task.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
You said that you checked for 240 volts but did you check that you had 120 volts, L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral. The motor uses 120 volts and you may have lost Neutral.
Yes. I checked across L1 and L2 and L1 to Neutral as well as L2 to Neutral. Everything looked fine.

Just want to thank everyone for their help on this.
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File Type: jpg pushswitch.jpg (54.1 KB, 27 views)
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:06 PM
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I must admit, electricity is not my speciality, so please forgive me for my ignorance on some of this stuff.
There is nothing to forgive and looking at what you have done and the way you have proceeded you are a long way past "ignorance"

The push-to-start switch did give me some confusion. Refer to the image that I attached to this reply. It has my test results

The contacts do look a little pitted but it gives 0 ohms across the contacts so should be OK.

With luck it will be the timer.

If that looks OK then to find the problem in the circuit you can attach/tape one meter lead to L1 (black) and leave it there. Then you work your way back through the circuit component by component till you find the open.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:31 PM
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Hey denman,

I think it is the timer. At first, I was ready to say that it was all good because it was showing 2440 ohms across the motor which is the right range for resistance. I checked some points for continuity, and they were good too (at least the ones that I knew to test); however, I kept hearing a small, rattling sound inside. I unscrewed a couple of screws to open it just a little, and a small "contact point" fell out (refer to attached photo). It is burnt on both sides.

I also found this post when searching for the timer's part number:

Whirlpool dryer wont start

It suggested checking for continuity between the T and W contacts. No continuity. I'm feeling better about this although it's going to be a relative, pricey part. I think I'm going to cautiously open it up to inspect the insides now.

Thanks for all your help and your encouraging comments!
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