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Austin3193  
#1 Posted : Saturday, December 18, 2010 10:40:18 AM(UTC)
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Austin3193

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Electric dryer will not start. I've initiated the following;
1) Checked power source for continuity
2) Checked door switch, still has tension
3) Replaced High Limit Unit and Fuse
4) Replaced Control timer
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, December 19, 2010 1:38:38 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL LNC7764A71 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]Electric dryer will not start. I've initiated the following;
1) Checked power source for continuity[/COLOR]
Not sure what you mean.
Did you check for power with a meter?
Does the interior light work? If it does then you know that power to run the motor is OK (L1 to Neutral = 120 volts)

[COLOR="Blue"]2) Checked door switch, still has tension
3) Replaced High Limit Unit and Fuse
4) Replaced Control timer[/COLOR]
Looking at the above it looks like you do not have a meter.
Just because the door switch has tension does not mean that it is OK. Even if it turns the interior light on/off does not mean it is OK. The contacts for the motor/start may still be no good. To check properly you have to use a meter.

I would check the door switch first.
Then the fuse. Would not be the first time that a new part was bad.
If OK
Then I would tape a meter lead to the Neutral and then work your way back through the wiring till you find the open part/connection/wire.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Better late than never.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
brianwm  
#3 Posted : Thursday, March 24, 2011 9:52:24 AM(UTC)
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brianwm

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I have the same problem. I have the same eletric dryer and it will not start. Yesterday when i got home the low heat setting would start the dryer but no other setting.

I have read all the forums and watch videos and tested all fuses in the back of the dryer. All fuses check out with the meter with a reading of 0 except the heating element which checked out at 10 on meter. I read that 10 is the number it should be.

Since it started on low heat I am expecting the motor and door switch to be working. I read that the timer switch might be bad but did not know how to test. I took the timer switch out and tested connectors to what looked like the wires running from the start button to the timer and it did not regester on the meter. I do not know if it would or not???

The timer meter when taken out and in my hands sounded like something was loose on the inside moving around in it. Again I am not very good at these things when it comes to fixing things with my hands, so i spent a ton of time about 4 hours testing fuses and all the things i could with the ohmmeter using the internet as my director. I have put all the parts back in the dryer and plugged it back in the 4 prong socket and now it will not start on low heat. i am thinking it is the timer switch/motor, but for the cost of those thigns i want to make sure i buy the right part to fix this dryer. so if anyone can tell me how to get a better understanding of the timer with testing and if testing with the meter is the right way to go and how to. any help or advise would be helpful, i am goin to try to run all test again this evening when i got off, so if anyone can help i would be highly appreciative.

thanks
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, March 24, 2011 1:46:54 PM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]I took the timer switch out and tested connectors to what looked like the wires running from the start button to the timer and it did not register on the meter. I do not know if it would or not???[/COLOR]
Yes the resistance should have dropped to zero when the switch was activated

Unplug the unit. Timer set to OFF. Set your meter to the 200 ohm scale. One meter lead goes on the Neutral of the power cord, just be sure it is Neutral and not ground, the other lead goes to the S connector on the timer. You should read a couple ohms, this checks the motor windings,the door switch and the thermal fuse.

Now instead of S move to M, it should read open. Push the start switch and it should drop to the couple ohms. This checks the start switch.

Now set your timer to auto mid scale. Now instead of M move to L. Try pushing the start switch again and you should see a couple ohms again. This check the run contacts M/L in the timer.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
brianwm  
#5 Posted : Thursday, March 24, 2011 2:17:48 PM(UTC)
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brianwm

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So i need to keep the start button wire connected to the timer switch/motor when testing the timer switch/motor unit, am I reading this correct?

Thanks for the reply I will start this process of testing this evening and write back what I learn. I hope I reply with atleast a smart reply as I said I am not to handy but I am trying hard to learn all of this and fix my dryer.

Again thanks, and I will update on here tonight my results.
denman  
#6 Posted : Thursday, March 24, 2011 3:10:42 PM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]So i need to keep the start button wire connected to the timer switch/motor when testing the timer switch/motor unit, am I reading this correct?[/COLOR]
Yes.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
I hope I reply with atleast a smart reply as I said I am not to handy but I am trying hard to learn all of this and fix my dryer.[/COLOR]
Don't sweat it. At one time none of us were handy and the only real way to learn is by doing so you are well on your way.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
brianwm  
#7 Posted : Thursday, March 24, 2011 6:12:32 PM(UTC)
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brianwm

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I started by checking the start button with the ohmmeter and when i push the start button it registers 0.

I then moved on to your steps suggested,

Here is the next issue i have -- other then the two wires coming from the start button. I have a total of 7 wires all labeled different then any of the letters you posted. I have 4 in a set and three others in a set connecting to the timer

the first set of four are labeled - A , B , C , H
the second set is labeled - X, T , F

I used the ohmeter and got the following:

  • negative and A -- i got a 0 ( audible beeping )
  • Negative and X -- i got a 0 ( audible beeping )
  • Negative and Y -- i got a 0 ( audible beeping )
  • Positive and C -- i got a 0 ( audible beeping )
No other combination resulted in sounds or a reading at all
This is me using the connection of negative on the timer and not the connection to the starter..

I think i am very confused here. As I put one prong just now on the starter black ( positive ) and other on (B ) on timer and get a audible only when I hit the start button. ( but not the other timer connection wires)
I then put the ohmmeter on the white with red stripe ( negative ) and (B) and it gave Audible push start button or not. ( but not the other timer connection wires)
again on for wire labeled B did this work no others

What is your thinking on this above.
denman  
#8 Posted : Friday, March 25, 2011 2:01:19 AM(UTC)
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denman

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All the below may be just be extra info as it does sound like your timer is toast. It should not rattle.
Just so you know I am off to the cabin tomorrow for a few days so will be unavailable.
I hope the below does not add to your confusion. It really is fairly simple once you get the hang of it.

I tried to find a cross reference for the timer connection designation and could not find anything so we will have to attack it from a different angle. Hopefully the wiring colors are correct.

After 30 years of fixing electronic/electrical devices, reading wiring diagrams has become second nature to me but you may want to do the following. Copy the wiring diagram. Right click and paste it into word, you can then expand it to a full page. Then print yourself a couple copies of it. Then get out some colored pencils/pens, you can then trace the circuits out. The timing chart shows you which timer contacts are closed when. I still do this with complicated circuits, makes understanding what is going on much easier.
One thing to note is that the wiring diagram is missing one wire The REI wire on the right hand side of the MOTOR CENT. SWITCH goes directly to L2 so add this in.

Since you are a newbie perhaps some basic info may help.
A dryer basically has two separate systems
The motor\light\buzzer which runs off of 120 volts [Neutral (white) to L1 (Black)]
The heater which runs off 240 volts [L2 (red) to L1 (black)]
When in Auto modes there is some interaction between the two. This is for the power to the timer motor. I do not want to make this too complicated so see [COLOR="Blue"](A)[/COLOR] at the end of the post.
So in timed dry you can basically split the diagram. The upper half being the motor and the lower half being the heater.

Your motor circuit is Neutral : thermal fuse : door switch C/NO contacts : motor protector : motor's run and aux windings : purple wire : start switch : M/L timer contacts : L1

So if you disconnect the purple from the timer and measure from it to neutral you should see a couple ohms. This is the motor's run and aux windings.
If you then reconnect the purple and measure Neutral to L1 (on most units all black wires will be L1). You should see infinite ohms (open) as all timer contacts should be open when at off.
Now put your timer to timed dry and measure from Neutral (white) to L1 (black). You should see a resistance, I am not sure what it will be but this is the timer motor winding.
Now push the start button and it should drop to the reading you got when you measured the purple wire as the motor windings are now switched into the circuit.

Once the motor gets close to the operating speed the centrifugal switches close So the motors aux winding is disconnected and the motor circuit is now: Neutral : thermal fuse : door switch C/NO contacts : motor protector : run winding : orange wire : timer contacts M/L : L1.
This lets you release the start switch and the motor keeps running.


[COLOR="Blue"](A)[/COLOR] In timed dry the timer motor get power from Neutral through the N/TM contacts, the timer motor, the M/L contacts to L1.
In auto mode it gets power from the 240 volts L2 to L1. This is through the heating element when the heating element is turned off by a thermostat. So the circuit path is L2 through the centrifugal switch (closed when motor is running) through the heating element then the red wire to R connection point on the timer. Now here is where it gets a tad confusing for many people. When the heater is on you have L1 on the left hand side of it and L2 on the right hand side of it giving the 240 volts. When a thermostat opens you loose the L1 on the left hand side of it and all you have is L2 on the right hand side.
Since the heating element has no current going through it, it does not drop any voltage so you now have L2 voltage also on the left hand side of it.
So now you have L2 voltage at timer connector R. This then runs through the resistor which drops the voltage to 120 volts to timer connector A, then through A/TM contacts, the timer motor M/L contacts and to L1 completeing the circuit.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
brianwm  
#9 Posted : Friday, March 25, 2011 7:39:48 AM(UTC)
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brianwm

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Thanks for all of this information. The time you put into helping me just to help is amazing. Thank you very much. The Timer is most likely toast. I will still do the suggested below as it will help me learn more and advance what little trade skills in this area. Again I can not thank you enough for all of your help. :D
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