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Lauren311  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 30, 2010 9:32:13 PM(UTC)
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Lauren311

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Hi everyone. My husband & I are attempting to fix our dryer. It is a Roper & the model # is rex5634kq1. I read a previous post about this model but we are still uncertain of a few things. He is a diesel mechanic & has never worked on a dryer so bare with us haha. It spins but will not heat so we're guessing the problem is the heating element or thermal fuse? Just basing this off some of the stuff we've read. We checked all the breakers going to it. It is plugged in :p. We have removed the heating element & checked the ohm's for it. It was at 10 ohms. We are unable to locate the thermal fuse. I have searched for a diagram but so far I have not come across one. Any direction or help is much appreciated.
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ApplianceJunk  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 30, 2010 10:43:51 PM(UTC)
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ApplianceJunk

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Here is your diagram.

Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REX5634KQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

There are two thermo fuses on the side of the heating element case.

There is also a white plastic like thermo fuse on the back of the blower housing.
Lauren311  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 1:22:41 AM(UTC)
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Lauren311

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Thanks so much, the diagram helped him quite a bit. To be sure we're testing correctly...what ohms do the heating element, thermostats, & thermal fuse need to be? So far the heating element tests at 10, he has to test the others tomorrow. I really appreciate your help, we just spent 150 to fix our fridge & we're broke. I guess this is appliance break down month haha.
ApplianceJunk  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 4:33:03 AM(UTC)
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ApplianceJunk

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10 ohms sounds about right for the heating element. Any good thermo fuse or thermostat should read around 0 ohms or shorted. If the thermo fuse is bad it will be open and you won't have any reading.
denman  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 4:42:31 AM(UTC)
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denman

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You may want to check your power.
The motor will run on half the line but the heating element requires the full 240 volts.

Just because a breaker looks OK does not mean that the unit is getting power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Lauren311  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 1:01:27 PM(UTC)
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Lauren311

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Thanks for all your help. The only thing he doesn't understand is what are L1 & L2...is there a simpler way to put it? Sorry we're both in our early 20's & have never done anything like this before. Thank you SO much for your time!
Lauren311  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 1:06:55 PM(UTC)
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Lauren311

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He says on the thermo fuse he is getting about .6 ohms. On the thermostat he is getting about 1.5 ohms on both. Also...from the green wire to the black & red wire it is 123.5 volts. From the white wire to the black & red its the same. We have flipped the breakers multiple times. Not sure if this helps?
denman  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 3:46:27 PM(UTC)
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denman

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L1 and L2 explanation.

They are the power sides of the line with a common Neutral (White).
It is alternating current.
So L1 (Black) to Neutral is 120 volts and L2 (Red) to Neutral is 120 volts but they are 180 degrees out of phase

Basically when L1 is at positive 120 volts, L2 is at negative 120 volts so if you measure L1 to L2 you should get 240 volts.
240 volts is what is used to power the heating element.
So measure Black to Red.

When using a meter, it is a good idea to short the meter leads together as there may be a 0 offset. In other words a 0.6 reading may actually be 0 ohms.

Also a good idea to disconnect one side of any device you are reading as this prevents reading an alternate /parallel circuit path.

When checking thermostat use the most sensitive scale on the meter.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Lauren311  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 5:06:55 PM(UTC)
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Lauren311

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He claims he gets 120 when he puts black & neutral together. And 120 when he puts red & neutral together....but when he puts the 2 prongs on black & red he gets zero. I have no idea :-/
denman  
#10 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 12:42:31 AM(UTC)
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denman

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OK he is on the right track.
You are missing one side of the line.
The reason he sees 120 on both sides is that the side that is good is feeding voltage through components and so you see it on both black and red.

Where is he measuring?

If measuring at the wall receptacle then you have an electrical problem.
Probably one of the breakers is toast.

If measuring at the machine, measure it at the wall receptacle with the machine unplugged.
If he gets 240 at the wall receptacle then there could be a problem with the unit's power cord.
With the unit unplugged and using resistance (ohms) check each of the connectors from the plug end to the terminal strip in the machine.
Use the most sensitive ohms setting.
All of them should be 0 ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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