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Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team RM, Thanks for the update and information. Was the E68 error the only

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
RM,
Thanks for the update and information. Was the E68 error the only issue ?
Anything is possible, but a "burned out thermostat" usually wouldn't create a "stuck button" error code.

Thanks,

Joe,
Yes, the thermostat was the only issue and as explained I was getting the E68 error prior to its replacement.
Regards.

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rm999 View Post
Joe,
Yes, the thermostat was the only issue and as explained I was getting the E68 error prior to its replacement.
Regards.
RM,

Thanks for the update. Your response will be in the Repair Forum, for future reference. Everyone will be able to review your response, and use it to determine the issue, before replacing the control assembly.

Thanks Again,
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:43 PM
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Did the test procedure and wasn't able to get the Temperature key to test out. Does this mean the whole board is shot or any way to test out individual board components?
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wpstrassburg View Post
Did the test procedure and wasn't able to get the Temperature key to test out. Does this mean the whole board is shot or any way to test out individual board components?
WP,
You don't want to start by replacing the control board(s)

Part number: AP3886830

Part number: AP3886830


Part number: AP3900210

Part number: AP3900210


You do want to separate the control panel from the user interface controlboards and make sure there are no "stuck" buttons, or damaged or weak return springs.
" Carefully free the button and perform the test again. If button is free but the key struck code still exists, replace electronic control."

Thanks,
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:10 AM
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I pulled everything apart and separated the circuit board from the plastic housing and was able to press the individual buttons on the circuit board. At first the temp button wouldn't cycle through the levels, but then started working. I put it back together and it worked for a bit then went back to erroring out. I will separate the individual buttons to make there isn't something keeping the circuit board button from releasing.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wpstrassburg View Post
I pulled everything apart and separated the circuit board from the plastic housing and was able to press the individual buttons on the circuit board. At first the temp button wouldn't cycle through the levels, but then started working. I put it back together and it worked for a bit then went back to erroring out. I will separate the individual buttons to make there isn't something keeping the circuit board button from releasing.
WP,
Great, You're on target. Clean evrything up, a dab of silicone lubricant on all the springs and buttons, and try it again.

Thanks,
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:06 PM
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So after a cleanup after my last post it was working fine until last week. Same E68 code now and the dryness won't cycle. button is not stuck. Where can I get a wiring diagram for the whole unit so I can check sensors?
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by wpstrassburg View Post
So after a cleanup after my last post it was working fine until last week. Same E68 code now and the dryness won't cycle. button is not stuck. Where can I get a wiring diagram for the whole unit so I can check sensors?
WP, We're going to presume your issue is with a Model AEQ7000ES0 . The E68 error code indicates an issue with a "stuck button" on the control panel, or a faulty control board.

We have attached a PDF file of the Dryer Tech Data Sheet as you requested, so you can program into the various diagnostic and error code programs and determine the issue.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 134682200ts_wd_EFS.pdf (382.9 KB, 103 views)
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:45 AM
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Thanks Joe. I'll give it a shot and see what i get for a defect. I jumped the thermocouple and the gas didn't fire, so that doesn't look to be the problem. I disconnected the humidity sensor, but didn't jumper the wires together as it didn't look like the sensor usually has power between the leads due to the design of the sensor. Can I jumper the humidity leads together without damaging the board?

I'll check the door switch as I don't remember seeing the light going on and off. Would the dryer even start if the door switch was failed open?

Gas will fire for just a second or three before it trips out to the E68 code. Would it even fire if the flame sensor is bad (open)?

Is the control thermistor the sensor on the motor or the one on the back right near the drum or is it the high limit stat?

Will any sensor faults come up as an individual code or a generic one besides the Error codes listed on the tech sheet?
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpstrassburg View Post
Thanks Joe. I'll give it a shot and see what i get for a defect. I jumped the thermocouple and the gas didn't fire, so that doesn't look to be the problem. I disconnected the humidity sensor, but didn't jumper the wires together as it didn't look like the sensor usually has power between the leads due to the design of the sensor. Can I jumper the humidity leads together without damaging the board?

I'll check the door switch as I don't remember seeing the light going on and off. Would the dryer even start if the door switch was failed open?

Gas will fire for just a second or three before it trips out to the E68 code. Would it even fire if the flame sensor is bad (open)?

Is the control thermistor the sensor on the motor or the one on the back right near the drum or is it the high limit stat?

Will any sensor faults come up as an individual code or a generic one besides the Error codes listed on the tech sheet?
WP, Manipulating the sensor wires won't really solve the issue, and jumping the wires will make the control "think" the clothes are wet and cause the dryer to not shut down. Besides there is the possibility of damage to the control board(even though very slight).

No, the dryer would not attempt to start if the door switch circuit was defective or stuck in the "open" position, there'd be no circuit or L1 voltage (120 VAC)to the motor through the door switch, and the dryer would not start.

If the flame sensor were defective, the burner would not even attempt to glow or ignite.

The Thermal limiter is located on the right rear wall of the dryer cabinet. The Hi Limit thermostat is located on the top of the heater housing (shroud) and the control thermistor is mounted on the front of the blower housing. The thermostats need to be "closed" at room Temp. and the thermistor should be approximately 50 K ohms on a meter test.

The heater and sensor circuit failure codes are listed on pg.1 of the tech sheet, there are a couple of codes for the control thermistor and one ( E5B) for a no heat situation. The information advises of checks to make at the heat circuit components. The majority of the error codes pertain to the control board, so when you conduct the diagnostic error codes, you may want to write them down, so you can compare them to the list and determine the possible issues.
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