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v2k04  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2008 9:07:00 AM(UTC)
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v2k04

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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
Wow...I've been so accustomed to removing belts while keeping pressure against idler pulley springs, I didn't know there was a hook on GEs to assist with belt removal/installation. They truly are tech friendly


Ya it's part of the motor bracket thats providing your arm is slim enough to get it in there to do it
magician59  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2008 9:44:49 AM(UTC)
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magician59

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How do you propose reinstalling the tumbler after servicing, or after replacing the bearing? I tip the machine on its back with a spacer block underneath to protect the vent tube. Is there a more effective way? That's the way I handle the White/Westinghouse models, too.
v2k04  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, November 5, 2008 10:13:41 AM(UTC)
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v2k04

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I have always done it with them upright, I put the bearing in the hole using the belt as a handle around drum I get it in and aim it at the hole in back, I'll sometimes when I miss the first shot use my knees in the front and grab the rear lip of the drum so I can look down where it goes in then I slide my arm in and install the belt put the front on and I'm outta there In 30 minutes or less
bdeboard  
#14 Posted : Friday, November 7, 2008 2:34:03 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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Ok guys, I rewired the heating element (without much of a problem) and replaced the drum bearing and retainer bracket (a few tense moments but got through it) and now it's down the home stretch of reassembly!... when I got to the part of removing the drum a couple days ago I really didn't take a good look at how the belt goes around the drive and tensioner (I know, my mistake) and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get it back in place with the proper tension. It has been a long week and the mind is not firing on all cylinders so what should be a relatively simple task has become a challenge;) Can someone please help me through this final part? The tensioner is on the lower left and I can force it to the right in order to reach the "hook" on the bracket if that helps in getting the belt back in place. Thanks--
abadfish66  
#15 Posted : Friday, November 7, 2008 2:55:26 PM(UTC)
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abadfish66

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With the belt around the drum and motor, pull the tensioner all the way to the right, now, the part of the belt that is on the right of the motor pulley goes on the tensioner. Once you have the belt lined up with the tensioner wheel, let go of the tensioner and walla your finished.
bdeboard  
#16 Posted : Friday, November 7, 2008 3:28:06 PM(UTC)
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bdeboard

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Thanks fish, I was able to get it in place but the reply is appreciated. Sometimes just writing it out as opposed to thinking it out is the trick I guess. I have a load in now and seeing if it heats up properly....

I hope you all have a great weekend! Debo
snoopymom  
#17 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2008 8:08:17 AM(UTC)
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snoopymom

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I have the same problem, my elements are new, changed them SEVERAL times but it still drys like it is on LOW. I have checked the termostats with one of those meters.

Do I need to change the switch? I takes me a really long time to dry one load of clothes. I have a GE dryer.
abadfish66  
#18 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2008 8:19:01 AM(UTC)
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abadfish66

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I would check you venting first, make sure the vent at the back of the dryer is not kinked. Then turn the dryer on and go to vent outside the house, and make sure you have a strong flow of air coming out. Blocked venting will cause long dry times.
snoopymom  
#19 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2008 8:32:26 AM(UTC)
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snoopymom

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No, my vents are clear. Elements are new.....What next?
abadfish66  
#20 Posted : Saturday, November 8, 2008 8:46:33 AM(UTC)
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abadfish66

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Ok, so I assume you have a good flow of air at the outside vent. Do you have a temperature probe?
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