[phil12357]

My dryer runs for about 15 minutes and then stops. Then all of the lights are flashing, but way faster than they do for any of the diagnostics or error codes (and they seem to go on forever). It doesn't feel like it is getting warm inside the drum. If I hit cancel and restart, I can usually restart right away, but in 15 minutes it stops again.

Someone suggested it might be a control board, so I replaced that, but I get the same issue.

Any thoughts? I've tried to search the forums, but haven't run into very much that sounds like this (one thread but it's missing any comments on what the problem ended up being). I'm pretty much an amateur, so if there are specific checks I can do, instructions or links that help out would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE LEQ1442ES0 Frigidaire/dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin...509400efsa.pdf

And a manual
http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/487_2.pdf

Note: I have never seen this so the following is just what I would do.

That you can restart the unit right after it shuts off is an important symptom.
Often dryer shut down is due to the motors internal thermal protect tripping but you would have to wait for the motor to cool down and the thermal protect to reset. I am assuming this is not the case.

Try to get into the diagnostics to see if the control board has stored an error code.
If no codes, the first thing I would do is check the power. (see below)

You may want to try different modes to see if it does it on all modes (auto and timed dry, with and without heat)

It could be that the board monitors the temperature and is shutting down/erroring out due to the no heat condition.
If power is good I would check the heating element, the hi-limit thermostat, the thermal limiter and the thermistor for resistance.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Sorry that I cannot be more helpful but hopefully the above will be of some use.

[phil12357]

Thanks for the response. I played around with it a bit more yesterday, but haven't completely solved it.

Here's a newbie question: is the heating element the same as the heating element assembly? I would assume not, but I cannot find heater element within the parts list on this site or a couple others. I'm just trying to price out everything to see how much value there is in continuing to mess with it.

Thanks again!

[denman]

I would say, yes.
If you click on the picture another view of the parts will open.
You can then click on it to see the element side of the assembly
Part number: AP2107129

[phil12357]

It was the heating element. After taking everything apart it was pretty apparent that the element was in bad shape. Then I put one finger on it and found that the coil had actually broken. Got it swapped out and reassembled and it looks like everything is working fine.

Thanks!