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kenmore dryer 110.60812990 wont start. Just replaced the motor AP3094245. It ran great for 2 days. Now it is dead.

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010, 09:35 AM
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Default dryer motor won't start
Model Number: 110.60812990   Brand: Kenmore   Age: More than 10 years   

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kenmore dryer 110.60812990 wont start. Just replaced the motor AP3094245. It ran great for 2 days. Now it is dead. 250 V at the outlet and terminals on the dryer. All fuses and switches checked out okay. Heating element 9.6 ohms. Do I need a new motor again?

Thanks!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 04:18 AM
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Do I need a new motor again?
Always a possibility but it is rare that a new motor will not run.
Check the windings for continuity.

You said; you had 250 but did you check that you had both sides of the line when referenced to Neutral re: 120 volts. The motor needs 120. Perhaps you have lost Neutral.

When checking fuses etc., did you disconnect one side of the device you were measuring? This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.
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Old 10-16-2010, 07:20 AM
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Yes, disconnected the fuses and switches before checking. I will recheck the power. Wondering if the heating element resistance is correct at 9.6. There is a printed circuit board near the start switch. It looks ok but how do I check it? Received a new motor in the meantime and that doesn't work either, so I don't think the motor is the problem. I have no diagram so how do I know what contacts to check on the switches, especially the start switch?
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Old 10-20-2010, 06:26 AM
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The power cable was a little split and corroded, so I replaced it. The dryer ran for a couple of hours and now it is dead again. I have a good 123 V at each pole on the power block. All the internal wiring looks good - no obvious shorts. What else can I check?
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:17 AM
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Wondering if the heating element resistance is correct at 9.6.
Yes this looks OK. Did you also check for a grounded element?
Remove wires from both sides and measure from each side of the coil to the frame. Both should be infinite ohms.
Note: This is just an extra check if the thermal fuse is blowing.
Other than the fuse it should not effect the nmotor starting.

There is a printed circuit board near the start switch. It looks ok but how do I check it?
It probably has nothing to do with the motor. The board is usually hooked to the moisture sensor strips and advances the timer to off when the clothes are dry.

I have no diagram so how do I know what contacts to check on the switches, especially the start switch?
The start switch may be a start relay unfortunately I could not confirm this from the pictures at AppliancePartsPros.
I also do not have a wiring diagram but here is a good link for Whirlpool dryers.
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html
Take a look at #34 Wiring diagrams and then # 7, I think this will be close to yours.

What else can I check?
It may have blown the thermal fuse so I would start there.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:16 AM
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Thanks for responding. I have traced all the wiring to the motor. I have 120V at the red wire coming from the power block to pin 2 on the motor and 120V at the blue wire to pin 4 on the motor. The black wire (pin 6) to the white wire (pin 5) reads 0 ohms when the start switch is pressed. The ground wire (green/yellow) checks out ok -0 ohms to neutral. The red wire at pin 1 seems to feed back into the dryer working its way through all the fuses which I rechecked. They all read 0 ohms when disconnected except the cycling thermostat. That reads 0 between the red wire connections, but about 7,000 ohms between the purple wire connections. The purple wires seem to connect the temperature select switch to the timer motor assembly. I don't know if this is right, but I'm buying a new cycling thermo because it's so cheap as well as new rollers for the drum as it seems kind of hard to turn. How do I check the motor to see if it is ok. It is brand new, and the second new one I tried in less than a week, but you never know. Oh yeah, the heating element checked out okay - no short circuit.

Last edited by DanMaiullo : 10-21-2010 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:44 AM
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That reads 0 between the red wire connections, but about 7,000 ohms between the purple wire connections. The purple wires seem to connect the temperature select switch to the timer motor assembly. I don't know if this is right
Your cycling thermostat looks OK.
One set of connections are the contacts, should be 0 ohms.
The other set is for a heating element built into the thermostat , 7000 ohms sounds bout right.

In either case this thermostat should not effect your motor.
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:32 AM
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I am doing a bit of guessing here but am fairly confident that I have it correct.
I am assuming that you used Neutral as the reference for all your readings.

I have 120V at the red wire coming from the power block to pin 2 on the motor
This looks normal as it is L2 voltage. It is one side of the centrifugal switch for the heater.

120V at the blue wire to pin 4 on the motor.

This also looks normal It is L1 voltage to the common connection on the motor.

The black wire (pin 6) to the white wire (pin 5) reads 0 ohms when the start switch is pressed.
This also looks good. Those 2 points are directly across the start switch.

The red wire at pin 1 seems to feed back into the dryer working its way through all the fuses
Yes, this is the other side of the centrifugal switch for the heater

Check from 4 to 5 for continuity. You should see about 2 ohms, this is the 2 motor windings wired in parallel.

Also if you measure to 5 or 6 you should see 120 volts when powered up. This is the L1 voltage (same as pin 4).
When you push the start button it should drop to zero. If it does not my guess would be that the door switch is toast.

The wiring diagram I linked is pretty poor quality so here is what the different connections should be.
1 - RED - heater centrifugal switch - to heater
2 - RED - heater centrifugal switch - to L2
4 - BLUE - left hand side of motor - common for both windings.
5 - ? - right hand side upper of motor - main motor winding and motor centrifugal switch
6 - BLACK - right hand side lower of motor - parallels the start switch - when the motor gets close to operating speed it disconnects the motor's start winding and connects across (parallels) the start switch so you can release the start switch and the motor keeps running.

I hope the above is more helpful than confusing.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:37 PM
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Your reply was very helpful. I checked the motors. The two new ones read 1.3 ohms from pins 4 to 5. The old rebuilt motor reads 1.9. So I guessed they were all ok. I powered it up and checked the voltage from pin 5 to neutral. 120V. But when the start button was pressed it did not drop to zero. So I jumpered the door switch and it did drop to zero. So I bought a new door switch and installed it. Now the motor starts but will not keep running. From everything I've read the centrifugal switch in the motor should keep the motor running after the start switch is released. Now the dryer will run for anywhere from 1 to 20 minutes before quitting, or it won't run at all unless the start switch is pressed in. I tried all three motors, same results. Could it be the drag from the drum is causing the motors to quit? Could it be the start switch? It's now a race to see if I can fix this thing before my wife goes out and buys a new one! Thanks!
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Old 10-23-2010, 03:01 AM
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From everything I've read the centrifugal switch in the motor should keep the motor running after the start switch is released.
That is correct.

Now the dryer will run for anywhere from 1 to 20 minutes before quitting, or it won't run at all unless the start switch is pressed in. I tried all three motors, same results. Could it be the drag from the drum is causing the motors to quit?
I cannot see 3 motors having the same problem so it must be something external to the motor. Try rotating the drum by hand. It should turn fairly easily.
You may want to try this on a couple other dryers to get a feel for it.

Could it be the start switch?
This is a possibility. One scenario would be that the contacts in the switch are pitted and dropping the voltage to the motor and this low voltage is causing overheating.
The problem with this is that once the unit starts up, it switches over to the centrifugal switch and therefore they are not in circuit once the unit is running.

I am pretty well stumped on this one.

I am going to post this in the tech section.
I may have missed something that someone else will see.
Perhaps someone else has the wiring diagram for this unit and will be able to find where I went wrong.
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