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Maytag electric dryer auto dry not advancing

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I have a Maytag electric dryer, model MDET236AYW (serial # 10161949GN). It was taking too long (and too much electricity)

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Old 10-03-2010, 11:48 AM
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Default Maytag electric dryer auto dry not advancing
Model Number: MDET236AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a Maytag electric dryer, model MDET236AYW (serial # 10161949GN). It was taking too long (and too much electricity) to dry. I started by replacing the duct work to make sure it wasn't clogged. When that didn't work, I moved on to the cycling thermostat. It was now getting hot and moving air, however, the timer never moved. So, next I replaced the timer, and the unit appears to be drying OK, but the timer doesn't move in the "Autodry" settings. If left alone it will run all day long ($$$). There are no sensors telling this unit how much moisture is in the load, so I'm unsure what actually tells the timer to advance, and therefore I have no clue what to check. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2010, 03:07 AM
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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDET236AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

You will notice that the cycling thermostat has normally open and normally closed contacts.
The normally close contacts run the heating coil.
The normally open contacts run the timer when in an auto mode, so I would start there. Timer only gets power when the heater is turned off during a cycle.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:12 PM
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I'm not really sure what you're saying, but I've already replaced the cycling thermostat. So unless I received a defective part, how can that still be the issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDET236AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

You will notice that the cycling thermostat has normally open and normally closed contacts.
The normally close contacts run the heating coil.
The normally open contacts run the timer when in an auto mode, so I would start there. Timer only gets power when the heater is turned off during a cycle.
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:46 AM
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When that didn't work, I moved on to the cycling thermostat.
Sorry but it did not click with me that the above meant you had replaced the thermostat.

I am not sure how to explain it better.
In auto modes the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.

You said it does not advance in "Autodry" so I am assuming that it does advance in timed dry. This tells us that the timer motor is OK.

Could be you have a grounded element. This can reduce the heater output so that it never gets hot enough and it is never turned off by the thermostat.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

Below is the circuit path for the timer motor when in autodry when the heater is turned off by the thermostat.

L1 : YL : timer #4 contacts YL to RD : : RD : 3 POSITION HEAT SWITCH L1 contacts either C or V : BU : CYCLING THERMOSTAT normally open contacts BU to OR : OR : BK : TIMER MOTOR : BK : WH/BK : DRIVE MOTOR centrifugal switch RD and WH/BK contact to YL/BK : YL/BK : PUSH TO START SWITCH S contact : YL/BK : DOOR SWITCH closed contact YL/BK to WH : Neutral

The circuit is a bit complicated so I hope the above makes sense.
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Old 05-23-2011, 02:58 PM
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Default Still not working properly

OK, this horse is almost dead. The wife insists this dryer is still not cycling properly. I have now replaced both thermostats, the heating element, and the timer. The timer advances when the temperature selector switch is in the "delicate" position, but not in the "regular" position. If I open the door and hold the switch, I can see the element glow, but it seems to shut off quicker than I would think it should. I could replace the selector switch (since it's the only thing I haven't), or possibly one of the thermostats was bad from the factory. I have got up twice in the morning and the dryer is still running from the night before, so she's not crazy, something is not right...
I could really use some ideas (besides buying a new dryer).

Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
When that didn't work, I moved on to the cycling thermostat.
Sorry but it did not click with me that the above meant you had replaced the thermostat.

I am not sure how to explain it better.
In auto modes the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.

You said it does not advance in "Autodry" so I am assuming that it does advance in timed dry. This tells us that the timer motor is OK.

Could be you have a grounded element. This can reduce the heater output so that it never gets hot enough and it is never turned off by the thermostat.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

Below is the circuit path for the timer motor when in autodry when the heater is turned off by the thermostat.

L1 : YL : timer #4 contacts YL to RD : : RD : 3 POSITION HEAT SWITCH L1 contacts either C or V : BU : CYCLING THERMOSTAT normally open contacts BU to OR : OR : BK : TIMER MOTOR : BK : WH/BK : DRIVE MOTOR centrifugal switch RD and WH/BK contact to YL/BK : YL/BK : PUSH TO START SWITCH S contact : YL/BK : DOOR SWITCH closed contact YL/BK to WH : Neutral

The circuit is a bit complicated so I hope the above makes sense.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:30 AM
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The timer advances when the temperature selector switch is in the "delicate" position, but not in the "regular" position.
I am still assuming that it advances and runs OK in timed dry.

If I open the door and hold the switch, I can see the element glow, but it seems to shut off quicker than I would think it should.

This is not a valid test because with he door open no air is pulled across the heating coils so it will over heat and the hi-limit will turn it off.

I could replace the selector switch (since it's the only thing I haven't), or possibly one of the thermostats was bad from the factory.
I would check the selector switch using a meter.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:43 PM
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Talking Denman, please help

Denman, I know you can help me with this. I have been struggling with this Maytag MDET236AYW electric clothes dryer, for over two years. I have replaced the heating element, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, timer, and temperature control switch. However, after all this, it still takes about five hours to dry a load. There is nothing left to replace!
The timer never advances (the dryer has actually been left on and running all night, I don't have to tell you that scares me). The vent is unobstructed and the blower appears to be moving plenty of air. I am at a total loss. Is it possible one of the new thermostats is bad? Which should I test? How?

Denman, do you make housecalls? :D
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:13 AM
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It is not out of the ordinary to get a bad part but it is strange that the problem would be exactly the same so I do not think it is a thermostat.

You could check the vent temperature output.
The Q&A for the thermostat says it should vary from 155 to 110 approximately on high (regular) heat.

I could not read the label on the back of the thermostat but it should show the specs.

I am grasping at straws here as you seem to have done everything.

Sorry I do not make house calls but it may be time to get in a pro.
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