[Retiredlucky]

I'm new to this web site, but find it informative. Is there a way I can disconnect the drum motor and still check if AC is getting to the ignitor? I previously checked the ignitor with an uncalibrated ohmeter and it shows some resistance, but I don't have any way to calibrate the reading, which your site says should be around 70 ohms. It seems that diagnosis is strictly checking continuity of key parts, but not testing parts while they are powered. The Estate gas dryer when opened up to get at the gas heater parts leaves the drum unsupported so you obviously can't turn the unit on for diagnosis.
Thanks for quick reply,
Retiredlucky

[libertyappl]

The continuity checks are what Whirlpool (which who makes makes the Estate) is what they tell us to do. Checking the unit while plugged in can be hazzardous to your health. If you have continuity, which must be checked with the component unplugged, then that part shold be good.
Nat

[SublimeMasterJW]

Check it out with the drum out and out of your way. I use an old lamp cord with aligator clips. I just shoot some wall current to the glow bar and see if it will glow. these are not like oven glow bars that must draw a certain amperage, these either glow or don't. a igniter.jpgJust unplug the quick connect and hook your cheater cord to the 2 prongs and give her some juice.

[SublimeMasterJW]

If that glow bar is going to work this guy pictured (flame sensor) must be cool and have continuity. If it is open then the glowbar simply will not come on: a flame sensor 2.bmp

[SublimeMasterJW]

Then you need to hunt for the fuse.fuse.jpg Located near the blower housing this dude will blow and kill the gas but the dryer will continue to run.

[Retiredlucky]

Originally Posted by SublimeMasterJW

Check it out with the drum out and out of your way. I use an old lamp cord with aligator clips. I just shoot some wall current to the glow bar and see if it will glow. these are not like oven glow bars that must draw a certain amperage, these either glow or don't. Attachment 481Just unplug the quick connect and hook your cheater cord to the 2 prongs and give her some juice.

SublimeMasterJW,
Thanks for your reply. I didn't think of removing the drum, partly because I didn't want to have to rethread the drive belt, since I hadn't done it before. It turned out that the continuity checks alone isolated the problem. My thermal fuse opened up (cheapest part and not expected to fail). Replacing it solved the problem. Now my problem is replacing the front drum "glide and bearing assy", the composite felt and folded over felt which is wrapped around the front of the drum. Mine separated and just taping the ends with duct tape didn't hold. The dryer works but puts out a horrible noise as it rotates. I've got one on order. I not sure if the Whirlpool "bearing" which are two separate pieces of felt works any better than the one on my Estate. The Whirlpool kind has to be mounted with high temp adhesive, while the Estate is mounted dry using clips. Any suggestions as to which is better. I ordered the Estate kind.

[Retiredlucky]

Originally Posted by SublimeMasterJW

Then you need to hunt for the fuse.Attachment 483 Located near the blower housing this dude will blow and kill the gas but the dryer will continue to run.

SublimeMasterJW,
Thanks again. You anticipated the thermal fuse. Some follow on questions. I've had a number of problems which irked me on this repair. One is I couldn't unplug the "quick disconnect" which allows me to remove the front panel. Is there a special trick to pull apart the connectors? Two is the nut clips which go on the sides of the front panel to fasten same to rest of the dryer kept falling down into the innards of dryer. Luckily I have a telescoping magnet pick up tool which allowed me retrieve them from the bottom corners. I'm going to epoxy them in place so they stay put. Three is the replacing of the front panel and drum which is seems like a four handed or two person job. I finally came up with making a "tool" to hold the drum in place to the dryer bulkhead panel using the holes in the drum to get a right angled rod in the hole and a Visegrip clamped along the rod to hold the rod against the bulkhead panel, so the drum stays next to the bulkhead. Do the pros have such a tool in their service kit?
Thanks again

[SublimeMasterJW]

Yeah the whlp ring is easily replaced inside the drum. as far as the ignitor I am with ya. It is sometimes hard to remove I think because it sits so close to the heat chamber. I use a pocket knife and jimmy it on out> far as the felt well if you fail to replace that then your clothes will suffer. Cheers!