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-   -   Roper Dryer Heat issue (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/119930-roper-dryer-heat-issue.html)

LouVillian 08-30-2010 01:58 PM

Roper Dryer Heat issue
 
I have a Roper Electric Dryer Model REX3514RQ1. Its about 5 years old. It runs fine but no heat. My guess is the heating element. I first checked the Fuse box to make sure both fuses were in the on position. Turned them off then back on to be safe. Took the back off the dryer and disconnected the High Limit Dryer Switch and ran a wire to each Unhooked wire to test that. The dryer still did not heat up while this was done. Have i tried everything? Is it more then likely the Heating Element? Is there a way to sure fire check the Heating element?

Thanks in adavance for any help!

LouVillian 08-30-2010 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LouVillian (Post 266239)
I have a Roper Electric Dryer Model REX3514RQ1. Its about 5 years old. It runs fine but no heat. My guess is the heating element. I first checked the Fuse box to make sure both fuses were in the on position. Turned them off then back on to be safe. Took the back off the dryer and disconnected the High Limit Dryer Switch and ran a wire to each Unhooked wire to test that. The dryer still did not heat up while this was done. Have i tried everything? Is it more then likely the Heating Element? Is there a way to sure fire check the Heating element?

Thanks in adavance for any help!


Pulled the Heating Element out and noticed the Bottom Coil is cracked in the middle. Im guessing this should correct my problem if replaced. If any techs can share some light it would be appreciated.

denman 08-31-2010 02:40 AM

Have i tried everything?
Not quite sure how you trouble shot it so I cannot say.

Is it more then likely the Heating Element?
Yes

Is there a way to sure fire check the Heating element?
Yes, use a meter.

You did not include a model number so I cannot try to find a wiring diagram for you. Hopefully you have one.

Heating elements are usually 10 to 12 ohms approximately.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.


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