[mark van]

Dryer stopped heating. Cleaned vent worked once then stopped heating. Replaced hi limit and thermal fuse. Noticed wires to heating element looked burnt. Replaced wires. Heating element only came on when cabinet top was raised. Ran load and smelled burning again. This time it was 3 position switch. Will replace the swich but want to know if something else could be causing problem.

[denman]

Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for AMANA NDE2335AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Dryer stopped heating. Cleaned vent worked once then stopped heating. Replaced hi limit and thermal fuse.
Did you check that you had good air flow after cleaning the vent?

I am assuming you replaced the heater's thermal fuse because it was blown. You still have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow. You have done this but it looks like you still have another problem.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

Heating element only came on when cabinet top was raised.
Ran load and smelled burning again.
I do not know what is going on here and am not sure I understand.
Does this mean that you ran the load with the top raised?
Sounds like there is a wiring problem somewhere.

This time it was 3 position switch. Will replace the swich but want to know if something else could be causing problem.
I cannot say why the switch would blow.
I would check the cycling thermostat's contacts and internal heating element.
Remove all 4 wires from the cycling thermostat, making sure to mark which wires go where.
Measure the internal heater, should be approximately 29,000 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the internal heater to both the thermostat's contact connections and also to the frame, all should be infinite ohms.