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The elec. dryer won't turn off at the end of the cool-down cycle. I assumed the timer to be the

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Old 08-11-2010, 06:35 AM
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Cool Dryer mystery
Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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The elec. dryer won't turn off at the end of the cool-down cycle. I assumed the timer to be the problem so bought a brand new one and tried it out. Still doing the same thing. Soooo I checked out the resister in the 4-prong thermo switch which should reed between 5400 to 8600 ohms. I'm getting a good 7000 ohms. I checked mall other thermal temp controllers and all are good. The start resister is also good.Everything works good up until it's suppose to click to the off position on the timer but not even the new timer will turn off. What are the chances of a new timer doing the same thing ?? Or is the problem something I've missed?
Jimmyds.

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Old 08-11-2010, 08:34 AM
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First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy View Post
First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
The timer works through the cycle but stops at the end of the cool down mode and won't turn off. This means there is power to the timer. I will wire it directly to 110 volts to see if it will cycle off completely. But first I have to go pick it up . It just arrived. Jimmyds
I now have the third Timer but I have connected 110v. to the original timer. It runs continuously while off the dryer on the bench test.I guess its not ever suppose to stop as long as its got 110 to it on the bench.What causes it to come to the end of it's cycle and not stop while on the dryer?

Last edited by jimmyds : 08-11-2010 at 09:49 AM. Reason: unfinished comments
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:47 AM
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Default Model #

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Originally Posted by ThatGuy View Post
First off, I need a model number. Then I can look up the wiring diagram and I might be able to help you. I doubt very much that both timers would be doing the exact same thing. Have you checked for 120 volts going to the timer motor? That is the first thing I always do with this type of problem.
Model #:WED5300SQO
SER #:MU3083532
jIMMYDS
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:21 AM
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Heres the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208576793.pdf

It looks pretty simple, but for some reason you are loosing power to the timer motor in the "cool down" part of the cycle. I wonder about the temperature selector switch.
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy View Post
Heres the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208576793.pdf

It looks pretty simple, but for some reason you are loosing power to the timer motor in the "cool down" part of the cycle. I wonder about the temperature selector switch.
This dryer doesn't have a temp.selector switch,buzzer,or light.
Here is more info: The timer doesn't run in any position on the dial.You can put it in any position on the dial and start but it will not cycle at all .If I put it on 'very hot' or fluff it will continue all day fluffing or heating and the timer won't run. It will only run on the first cycle at the top of the dial.This is the longest running mode on the dryer.This mode is where the timer motor does run once its started, but when it gets to the end of this on the cool down part the timer power is interrupted losses it's power and the timer motor won't advance further to turn the dryer off and the dryer runs continously just like it does on ALL other places on the dial.
PS: This is the third timer since yesterday.(The original one and two new ones all do the same thing.) I don't believe it's the timer but don't know what else it could be.

Last edited by jimmyds : 08-11-2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:10 PM
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What is the part number of the original timer and what are the part numbers of the replacement timers? Could you provide a good picture of the timer with all the wires on it?
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:16 PM
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What is the part number of the original timer and what are the part numbers of the replacement timers? Could you provide a good picture of the timer with all the wires on it?
NO PICTURES BUT ALL TIMERS ARE THE SAME #'s.Model #M460-G Item#8299778 FSP Assembled in MEXICO
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:30 PM
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OK, pull up the wiring diagram or if you have the one from the dryer thats fine. In the center of the diagram you will see "timer switch 0" one side has "tm" the other can be "or" or "bw"

Starting at the timer, you need to find out if the "bw" wire is intact all the way back to "1m" on the motor. It should also have continuity to the one terminal on the heating element. "or" should have continuity all the way to the other side of the heating element. Also check and see if the heating element is shorted to the shell. "tm" should have continuity to the terminal block black wire on the back of the dryer.

Something inside your dryer has either made or broken a circuit and we need to find out what it is.
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy View Post
OK, pull up the wiring diagram or if you have the one from the dryer thats fine. In the center of the diagram you will see "timer switch 0" one side has "tm" the other can be "or" or "bw"

Starting at the timer, you need to find out if the "bw" wire is intact all the way back to "1m" on the motor. It should also have continuity to the one terminal on the heating element. "or" should have continuity all the way to the other side of the heating element. Also check and see if the heating element is shorted to the shell. "tm" should have continuity to the terminal block black wire on the back of the dryer.

Something inside your dryer has either made or broken a circuit and we need to find out what it is.
OK:First ,even though it shows 7000 ohms I'm going to replace the 4 wire resister thermal switch an see if it's causing the problem. I'll get back with you on this hopefully today.Thanks
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