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my whirlpool duet dryer runs fine but will not heat up to dry clothes. does this sound like the heating

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 08:32 PM
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Question dryer runs but will not heat up
Model Number: gew9250pw1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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my whirlpool duet dryer runs fine but will not heat up to dry clothes. does this sound like the heating element needs replacing or is it something else entirely.
any suggestions or advise, greatly appreciated.
thanks:


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 03:50 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEW9250PW1 Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208558722.pdf

Cannot find a manual for a 9250 but here is one for a 9200 with a little luck it will be close to your unit.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/Duetdry.pdf

Could be a number of things.
Try running the diagnostics perhaps it will help narrow it down.

Then try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

If OK
Unplug the unit and check the heating coil and thermostats etc. for continuity.
Heating coil, should be 10 ohms approximately.
Thermostats and thermal fuse all should be 0 ohms.
The thermal fuse for the heater is Item 47 in Section 3.
The high limit is also on the heater.
The cycling (control) thermostat is on the blower.
The thermal fuse on the blower is for the motor so is OK.
If the heater's thermal fuse is blown get back to us as there are other things that should be checked before replacing it.
Check the thermistor for resistance.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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