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Dishwasher not cycling

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Hello, I haven't been able to figure out exactly what's going on with my dishwasher, but here are the symptoms

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Old 02-23-2010, 10:15 AM
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Default Dishwasher not cycling
Model Number: GSD4000J00B   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hello,

I haven't been able to figure out exactly what's going on with my dishwasher, but here are the symptoms after a full run cycle:
1. Soap is left in the second stage detergent cup.
2. A few inches of water is left in the bottom of the unit (this is unusual).
3. It appears to never perform the drain portion of the cycle (I don't hear the typical sound of the pump running when it should be draining).
4. If I disengage and reengage the door latch with the timer knob in any position, it always starts the spray/wash function (I was trying to get it to run the drain portion of the cycle when I found this - not sure if it's normal or not).

The float valve, the outlet and the drain it's connected to all seem fine.

If it's the timer, what tests can I perform to verify this is the problem part before I order it?

Thanks so much folks, this site has really saved me in the past...
-Evan


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2010, 04:59 AM
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I haven't been able to figure out exactly what's going on with my dishwasher, but here are the symptoms after a full run cycle:
1. Soap is left in the second stage detergent cup.

You did not say if the detergent door opens. If it does then this indicates that you also have a problem with the wash. I would remove the sump cover (center, bottom in the tub) and check it for debris or something wrapped around the chopper. Be careful, there is often broken glass in the sump.
2. A few inches of water is left in the bottom of the unit (this is unusual).
These units often leave about a 1/4 inch of water in the bottom. The pump will burn up it seals if run dry.
3. It appears to never perform the drain portion of the cycle (I don't hear the typical sound of the pump running when it should be draining).
This does sound like a timer problem
4. If I disengage and reengage the door latch with the timer knob in any position, it always starts the spray/wash function (I was trying to get it to run the drain portion of the cycle when I found this - not sure if it's normal or not).
It may be tricky to find the exact drain position as it is just 10 seconds or so.

If it's the timer, what tests can I perform to verify this is the problem part before I order it?
Sounds like you have already done a fair amount of troubleshooting.
You should be able to turn the timer to a drain position, shut the door and it should drain. Note finding the drain position can be tricky.

Remove the kick plate so you can see the motor.
Manually move the wash/drain solenoid (left hand side of the pump assembly), to ensure it will move freely.
If not, remove the solenoid and inspect it, it could be it has overheated, melted the inside plastic and is jammed in the up position (wash).
If it has overheated replace both the solenoid and the timer, as usually overheating means that the timer supplied power to the solenoid for too long of a time re: sticking contacts).

The way your drain works is that at the start of a drain cycle the timer provides power to the wash/drain solenoid for about 10 seconds. This pulls the solenoid's plunger down which switches the flapper valve in the pump assembly to the drain position. The water pressure then holds the flapper in the drain position till the unit is empty. The springs on the solenoid assembly then pull the plunger up and the flapper is then in the wash position.

With the door ajar, hold the solenoid plunger down and then shut the door if the unit now drains you know that it is not a house drain/plug problem.

Put the timer to a position just before there should be a drain cycle. Let the unit run and monitor the voltage across the drain solenoid. If the unit runs through the drain position and you do not see any voltage at the solenoid (120 volts AC) then the timer is shot.
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