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Replaced water inlet valve, still not working

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My dishwasher is not letting water flow inside. I read online that there are two likely causes - a stuck

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Old 02-09-2010, 04:48 PM
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Default Replaced water inlet valve, still not working
Model Number: GSD2200G02CC   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My dishwasher is not letting water flow inside. I read online that there are two likely causes - a stuck float switch and a bad water inlet valve. After confirming that the float switch was working, I ordered a new water inlet valve for $55. I also confirmed that the water hose feeding the valve was not clogged and that the elbow fitting connecting the hose to the valve was unobstructed.

Tonight I installed the valve, reconnected the water hose, and reconnected the wiring. Nothing has changed. When I start the washer it starts running but no water flows inside.

What else can I try to replace?

FYI - I just moved into a bank-owned home that sat unoccupied for about 13 months. Various plumbing-related things throughout the house are not working, one of which is the dishwasher. I believe it was new with the house, built in 2004.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 08:26 AM
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Bump.

Could this be an electrical problem? If the water inlet valve is brand new and still no water enters the dishwasher, could there be a broken switch or relay somewhere that's not sending signals to it?
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:16 AM
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I also confirmed that the water hose feeding the valve was not clogged and that the elbow fitting connecting the hose to the valve was unobstructed.
Did you do this by actually running water into a pail?

What else can I try to replace?
I wold not replace anything, I would get a meter and check the overflow switch, should be 0 ohms.
If OK then plug the unit in and check from one side of the overflow switch to the far side of the water valve.

If you do see 120 volts then the problem is in the valve/water supply.

If there is no 120 unplug the unit and check the wires for continuity from the timer to the valve/overflow switch devices.
If all OK then probably your timer is toast.

Could this be an electrical problem?
Yes, could be a broken wire or a loose connection.

could there be a broken switch or relay somewhere that's not sending signals to it?

The voltage for the valve comes directly from the timer but does run through the float/overflow switch.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:43 AM
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Yes I checked the water supply by running water into the sink (the braided hose is long enough to reach believe it or not). Water runs freely from the hose. It's not the water supply.

Thanks for the suggestions using the multimeter. I do have a good one, but honestly I'm not sure that I'd recognize the correct wires to test.

Also I see a new timer would be another $60 assuming that is in fact the problem.

There's a point where I'd rather just have a brand new dishwasher as opposed to spending over $100 and several hours making a broken one work again.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:16 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions using the multimeter. I do have a good one, but honestly I'm not sure that I'd recognize the correct wires to test.
Is not difficult. There should be a wire that runs from the float over to the water valve. You want to measure the other two.
Meter lead---wire from control---float switch---wire ---water valve--- meter lead
If no 120
Then remove power from the unit.
Remove the door's inner panel
And check the wires visually and then for continuity. They are color coded and should be easy to trace.
Remember to disconnect one end of the wire when checking it. This ensures you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive ohms setting.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:56 AM
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Don't mean to bring back an old post but I'm having the same problem on a GE "powerscrubber" dishwasher. The pump runs but doesn't fill with water. I tested the wire that goes from timer to float switch and can only register 0.75V .. I figured the timer was bad so I replaced it with a new one, still only .75V on the hot wire and I am getting .75 to the water valve. I don't see any broken wires. I know for a fact the red wire that goes from the timer down to the float switch is not damaged or broken. Anyone have any other ideas? Like I said the pump comes on and it sounds normal, just not putting power through to the float switch and valve.
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