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Hi, Thanks for the info. My 2006 SHE45 had the heater prong burnt out in the control module as did

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Old 11-16-2011, 08:35 PM
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Default SHE45 Burnt Solder

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Hi, Thanks for the info. My 2006 SHE45 had the heater prong burnt out in the control module as did most of the models in this thread. I'd like to report that all is working great with the rather quick and painless repair.

Thanks again.

Burnt in Buffalo

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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2011, 04:52 PM
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Default manual download

thanks for the download any info on these units comes in handy
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2012, 03:19 AM
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Default Another Bosch heater relay issue but w/ a twist

I was able to repair our 5+ yr old Bosch SHX46 but wanted to add my experience to help other's who might find out the usual heater relay pin resoldering job wasn't the full cure to their dishwasher's problem.

* Problem Description - Dishes still dirty, doesn't seem to heat up as hot as it use to (or not at all), not sure if it even finished the cleaning cycle.

* Internet Search: Seems like about 99% of the time the fix for this problem turned out to be a burnt out solder joint on the Heater Relay that just needs to be resoldered, some have actually replaced the original relay with a beefier 12A relay in place of the OEM 10A model. Cool seems like an easy fix.

* Find: Took apart the front door to remove the control board and sure enough a burnt out solder joint was discovered on the Heater Relay. The Relay's pin seemed to have melted away to barely a nub but I was able to solder some solid copper wire to the nub and testing the 6v relay with a power supply verified it was functional.

* FIX: Reassembled the Bosch with the repaired control board feeling very confident it was fixed but performing a test wash cycle quickly proved otherwise. Next day I went out and picked up a replacement relay thinking maybe the repaired relay pin was not handling the fairly large amount of current the Heater requires. After replacing the relay I decided to measure the relay's coil which should be around 100ohms, it measured as a dead short (hmmm is it a DOA relay). After more troubleshooting of the control board it turned out to be a bad IC chip, a tiny ULN2003AG 8-pin surface mounted chip. This chip operates the relays for the motors, heater and detergent/rinse agent actuator. Removing and resoldering on a replacement surface mounted chip like this without damaging the board traces is kind of a challenging task but I'm happy to report that it all worked out fine and the Bosch is working great again.

** Was all this worth it? Let's think about what the cost difference would have been if this were a Field Service call (I was a Field Service Engineer for nearly 15yrs). Even if I were to charge only what my old employer use to pay me @$40/hr, I spent nearly 8hrs of labor with all the troubleshooting and board repair. I spent about $7.50 for the new relay and chip, markup 7x for the parts and $320 for labor the Total comes out to $372.50 but if I were to charge the $225/hr that my old employer charged the customers that Total jumps up to a whopping $1852.5 (I wasnt repairing dishwashers).

A brand new replacement control board could be purchased for about $150 and just about anyone can install the replacement board on this model within an hour. I spent a total of $7.50 to repair my Bosch, so yes I can honestly say it was well worth it (plus I like tackling challenges like these).

NOTE: This is an example of why some jobs get eliminated. Not a lot of people can troubleshoot and repair at the board level like I did but anybody can be trained to just swap out a control board. These days if your DVD player dies it wouldnt make any sense to pay somebody 4hrs of labor to repair it, it makes more sense to toss it and buy a new one for $49.99
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:43 AM
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Default Bosch SHU99x won't fill

The troubleshoot guide is great. My problem is that while doing the test for my SHU9915UC/U12, the water doesn't fill, and there is a burning smell. I let it run for several 20 sec. fill attempts, but was afraid I was burning out a motor. This is a 10 yr old model which I bought used, and have installed for the first time. It drains, but doesn't fill. It also doesn't wash when I manually fill it. It is epoxied to the granite coutertop, so before I have someone out to remove it, can I identify what the problem is? water valve vs. water fill?
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:37 PM
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Great to have some manual but my dw is SHE43F16UC-59. Does anyone have a link to this manual?
Problem - drain pump puts out water but leaves water above the screen; this water is soapy and I assume the dishes were rinsed with this stuff. Is the pump not running long enough? There is nothing under it and the drain line and cross-connection defeat device have been cleaned by dismounting and pulling water out the air gap using a shop vac.
Thanks,
Bob
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:28 PM
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Bob,

Did you clean all screens and filters inside the dishwasher as instructed in the Users guide?

Make sure the air gap itself and the drain hose connected to the air gap are absolutely clean.

Does the wash pump work during the wash cycle?

Gene.
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2012, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Bob,

Did you clean all screens and filters inside the dishwasher as instructed in the Users guide?

Make sure the air gap itself and the drain hose connected to the air gap are absolutely clean.

Does the wash pump work during the wash cycle?

Gene.
Everything works and the air gap and hose are clear. The drain pump runs and has been checked there is nothing under or in the impeller. It is just that the water level remains above the floor of the machine at cycle end.
Bob
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 01:44 PM
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Would it drain completely if you cancel the cycle during the wash?

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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 02:31 PM
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Default We all have troubleshooting manuals -- just don't know it

Hi folks,
if you are like me, you been looking all over the internet for a toubleshooting manual. Well, I was.... until now. I just found mine. I'll bet you have one specific to your machine and don't even know it.

Look on the underside of your Bosch dishwasher on the left side near the front. It is very easy to find if you remove the front panel put your cheek on the floor and look up at the underside. You'll find a very well folded piece of paper loosely held in place by three clips. Slide it out and unfold it.

The paper shows the wiring diagram on one side and the troubleshooting diagnostic tests on the other side. The diagnostic tests are specific to your machine.

I thought my run times were getting long. With the wiring diagram I was able to unobtrusively locate the heating wire and measure the current going to the heater with a clamp-on Amp meter. Turns out it is drawing the specified amount of current.

Using the diagnostic test on the "hidden" paper, I get no error codes - - another clue.

So, check beneath your dishwasher (front left side).
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 09:04 AM
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Default Wet Dishes?

Bosch SHU6806UC/U12 (1991 build)
Runs complete cycle, but dishes are still wet? I don't see any info on testing, or replacing the heating element? Is this the wrong place to start? Should I be checking the panel/control box for the heater element? Can't seem to find that in the trouble shooting guide either? Seems like the only thing on here to do with "heat", is the part that raises the water temp?
Thanks for any help.
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