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I need to replace the control board of my Whirlpool dishwasher. There is a thermal fuse next to the control

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Old 01-05-2010, 12:21 PM
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Default Whirlpool dishwasher fuse
Model Number: DU920QWDQ3   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I need to replace the control board of my Whirlpool dishwasher. There is a thermal fuse next to the control board. There are two spring loaded breakers. One of the two has tripped. The other has not. Do I need to replace the fuse along with the control board ? Or do I replace the control board and just reset the breaker that tripped ?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2010, 12:35 PM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DU920QWDQ3 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203379064.pdf

I need to replace the control board of my Whirlpool dishwasher.

Why? What are the symptoms? What have you done to troubleshoot it?

There are two spring loaded breakers. One of the two has tripped. The other has not.
This is where you loose me. Are you referring to the door latch switches, Item 11 in Section 1?

Do I need to replace the fuse along with the control board ?

In order to know what to replace you have to check the fuse to see if it is blown. It could be that it is all that is wrong with the unit. If it is the fuse the new wiring harness also has to be used. See Item 4 in Section 1.

Or do I replace the control board and just reset the breaker that tripped ?

Again am lost here as I do not see circuit breakers in either the parts or the wiring diagram. If it is the switches, both should close when the door is latched.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:56 PM
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Sorry, I mistook the dual motor (3374501, item 17) for the thermal fuse (3376359, item 4). Ignore everything I said about the thermal fuse. The reason I need to replace the control board is because the dishwasher failed to turn on. So I had a repairman come out and look at it. He said that the control board needed to be replaced. So I decided to do it myself. I took the door apart to expose the control board and found that there was an area of black residue near the thermal fuse. So it appears that the thermal fuse definitely needs to be replaced. It would seem that the control board also needs to be replaced, otherwise, why would the fuse blow ? The dual motor is the device that has two spring loaded latches. One latch is released and won't reset in the "in" position. The other latch is set in the "in" position. Is that a normal condition for the dual motor latches ? Are those latches actually circuit breakers ? By the way, I do own a volt/ohm/amp meter. Let me know what measurements you would like me to make and I will do it.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:48 PM
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Here is a manual which may be useful
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...E/4322451L.pdf

The reason I need to replace the control board is because the dishwasher failed to turn on. So I had a repairman come out and look at it. He said that the control board needed to be replaced.
If the repairman did not remove the inner door panel then he was just guessing.
The fuse can blow because of excessive current but it is designed to blow because of high temperatures. If the residue near the fuse is soot then it may have blown due to high current. This could be a shorted device or a blown board.

So it appears that the thermal fuse definitely needs to be replaced.
Check it with a meter it should be 0 ohms.

It would seem that the control board also needs to be replaced, otherwise, why would the fuse blow ?
Sometimes they just blow as you can see the replacement is a kit to reduce the fuses doing this. Also could be a device has shorted.
Check the various devices to make sure they have resistance basically you are trying to find out if anything has shorted. Note always remove at least one wire from anything you are measuring for ohms. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.

The dual motor is the device that has two spring loaded latches. One latch is released and won't reset in the "in" position. The other latch is set in the "in" position. Is that a normal condition for the dual motor latches ? Are those latches actually circuit breakers ?

Not sure where they should be at rest, check the manual. They are wax motors. Basically this is a plunger in a cylinder filled with wax. You will see on the wiring diagram that each one has a small heater in it. When this heater is turned on the wax melts, expands and pushes the plunger out. Remove power to the heater and as the wax solidifies the plunger is retracted. Sort of like a slow acting solenoid. They run the rinse aid and detergent.

This is what I would do but do not know what experience you have so am not recommending it.
I would check the fuse.
If blown I would wire in a standard 10 amp fuse.
And give it a try.
If it fires up and runs a cycle then you know that it is probably just the fuse that is blown.
Do not run the unit like this, it is just to check the system.
I would then order and replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device for both temperature and current.
If the 10 amp blows then check the various devices for resistance.
If all are OK then it is probably the board that is shot.

At close to $170.00, I do not know if it is worth putting that many dollars into this fairly old machine unless it is in excellent condition.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:15 PM
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Thank you for your followup. I will try everything you suggest. One question. When you say "If the 10 amp blows then check the various devices for resistance", can you tell me which specific devices I should check ? Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2010, 02:49 AM
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I would check both wax motors, pump motor windings and the fill valve.

Also visually check the wiring where it goes from the door to under the unit.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:44 PM
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I have measured the resistance across the thermal fuse and it is zero. I guess this means that the fuse has not blown ? I also measured the resistance across each of the two dual motors. They were each about 4000 ohms. The repairman already checked the motor and fill valve and said they were Ok. So it appears that everything else seems to be working. I guess this leaves the control board as the problem ?
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:34 AM
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Have you checked both door latch switches to make sure that they both close and when closed they are at 0 ohms.

You could also close them and then check that you have 120 volts between P8 and P7 on the board.

If you do have the correct voltage here then I would put the board at the top of the list.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:37 PM
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I measured the resistance of each switch in the closed position and got zero ohms for both of them. I then measured the voltage between P7 and P8 and got 120 volts. Is the next step to replace the control board ? Our dishwasher is in excellent condition. We have a water softener and always clean food off of the plates before putting them in the dishwasher. So it is pretty pristene for being 13 years old.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:48 PM
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I then measured the voltage between P7 and P8 and got 120 volts. Is the next step to replace the control board ?

Yes that would be what I would do as it is getting power and will not fire up.
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