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By the way, I double checked the fill valve and measured a resistance of about 500 ohms. The manual you

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Old 01-08-2010, 01:46 PM
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By the way, I double checked the fill valve and measured a resistance of about 500 ohms. The manual you sent me indicated that the fill valve resistance should be between 695 and 995 ohms. Is that a problem ?

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Old 01-09-2010, 05:03 AM
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If you removed at least one wire from the valve when you measured it then I would also replace it just to be on the safe side.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:45 AM
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denman: do you know of a link to the job aid for model: DU948PWPQ0? I would like to take a few resistance readings before replacing the thermal fuse at a tenants home. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here is a manual which may be useful
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...E/4322451L.pdf

The reason I need to replace the control board is because the dishwasher failed to turn on. So I had a repairman come out and look at it. He said that the control board needed to be replaced.
If the repairman did not remove the inner door panel then he was just guessing.
The fuse can blow because of excessive current but it is designed to blow because of high temperatures. If the residue near the fuse is soot then it may have blown due to high current. This could be a shorted device or a blown board.

So it appears that the thermal fuse definitely needs to be replaced.
Check it with a meter it should be 0 ohms.

It would seem that the control board also needs to be replaced, otherwise, why would the fuse blow ?
Sometimes they just blow as you can see the replacement is a kit to reduce the fuses doing this. Also could be a device has shorted.
Check the various devices to make sure they have resistance basically you are trying to find out if anything has shorted. Note always remove at least one wire from anything you are measuring for ohms. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.

The dual motor is the device that has two spring loaded latches. One latch is released and won't reset in the "in" position. The other latch is set in the "in" position. Is that a normal condition for the dual motor latches ? Are those latches actually circuit breakers ?
Not sure where they should be at rest, check the manual. They are wax motors. Basically this is a plunger in a cylinder filled with wax. You will see on the wiring diagram that each one has a small heater in it. When this heater is turned on the wax melts, expands and pushes the plunger out. Remove power to the heater and as the wax solidifies the plunger is retracted. Sort of like a slow acting solenoid. They run the rinse aid and detergent.

This is what I would do but do not know what experience you have so am not recommending it.
I would check the fuse.
If blown I would wire in a standard 10 amp fuse.
And give it a try.
If it fires up and runs a cycle then you know that it is probably just the fuse that is blown.
Do not run the unit like this, it is just to check the system.
I would then order and replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device for both temperature and current.
If the 10 amp blows then check the various devices for resistance.
If all are OK then it is probably the board that is shot.

At close to $170.00, I do not know if it is worth putting that many dollars into this fairly old machine unless it is in excellent condition.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:36 PM
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jingus

See the attachment.
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File Type: pdf DU948.pdf (163.9 KB, 3 views)
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