I've read the other threads on this topic for my BOSCH SMU2046UC/14 dishwasher and have been able to eliminate those problems. My goal is to find a repair which is less than a $200 timer motor for 15 y/o dishwasher. Here we go...

Dishwasher was working fine, then the drain line (Johnson T valve which vents to outside) froze. DW ran the cycle but didn't drain. Once the line thawed, I reconnected the DW and replaced supply line with one of those braided hoses with that are supposed to automatically shutoff when the break.

I started the DW and it was running fine, but stopped mid cycle (timer motor still running). I moved the timer ahead a couple of clicks and it continued. It stopped again and I moved it forward, etc. until it finished. No problems draining.

The next time I go to wash, there is no timer motor noise or any other indication that it is receiving power. So I got out the multimeter...

There are not signs of burns on wires, connections, button switch board, etc. House wires have good connections with the dishwasher. I removed the switch panel and verified continuity on the on/off switch.

The light bulb above the on/off switch is burnt out and is no longer available so I assume it is not a single point of failure and I don't need it. With the on/off switch in the off position, I measured 120V across the black and white wires (on the "line" side of the switch). The door switch is working correctly.

I saw the wire diagram posted earlier, but it is all Greek to me. I don't know how to diagnose the timer to verify it is a problem, I do turn the dial (with vice grips since the front panel off) slightly into the wash cycle like I normally did to start it running and there was no noise coming from the timer. I tried all positions on the dial and still nothing.

Looking at the wire diagram switches that affect the timer motor, I see these:

ON/OFF switch: VERIFIED 3 to 3a, 4 to 4a
Door switch: VERIFIED
Buttons: Regular and Pots/Pans, changed continuity across leads at the end of the button switch board where the wires connect so I'm assuming they are doing what they should, If they aren't, then "no active switch" should be Rinse & Hold so at least that should work, but it doesn't.

Okay, any suggestions for something to check that is more in the $50 range (or free) would be great help. Otherwise, I think it is time for a new dishwasher.

Thank you,
Jeff