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J Ebne  
#1 Posted : Sunday, December 13, 2009 10:30:36 AM(UTC)
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J Ebne

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Joined: 12/13/2009(UTC)
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Heating element of GE GHDA485N10CS does not come on. only 14 months old. Everything else works ok, goes through full cycles. How do you determine repair and replace non-working parts???
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, December 13, 2009 1:03:27 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts> Yours is probably just newer but if ordering parts be sure to use your model number as there may have been some changes
Replacement parts for GHDA485N10CS models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Easiest way is to check the heating element with a meter.
Remove power from the unit, unplug one side of the element and measure it.
Usually between 10 to 25 ohms.

If OK check that the wires from the time/control to the heater have continuity. Could be one of them has kinked and is open.

If all OK the control board probably needs replacing re: the contacts on the heating relay have burned up or the relay is not closing.

If the element is shot you may also want to replace it's sealing grommets, in case they get screwed up when you remove the element.

NOTE: Getting tech info on GE's is difficult to say the least. They like to keep is a secret. Hopefully when you remove the kick plate you will find the wiring diagram which should be very useful. Some units use a thermistor or a thermostat to regulate the heater, I could not find either in the parts breakdown but may have missed them. If the unit does use these then they are another possible cause.
Also check for a hi-limit thermostat wired into the lines going to the heater., if there is one it should be 0 ohms.

Perhaps someone else will jump in who has better info on this unit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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