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-   -   GE QuietPower 1 won't drain. (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dishwasher-repair/63311-ge-quietpower-1-wont-drain.html)

chrislo 12-09-2009 02:09 PM

GE QuietPower 1 won't drain.
 
Hello, today I have encountered some problems with my GE QuietPower 1 dishwasher. The Model # GLD4200L15CC. When the cycle is complete 2-3 inches of water remains in the bottom of the tub. The drain pipe is connected with a raised tube to the drain of the sink. I was told that it might be the solenoid that controls the drain valve. We tried hitting the start/reset button numerous times to get it to drain but it did not drain and the water was removed manually. I removed the plate at the bottom of the dishwasher but cannot find the solenoid looking from that position. Does the whole dishwasher need to be pulled out physically? Do you have any suggestions what might be causing this problem? Solutions? Also does a free illustrated repair guide for my dishwasher exist online for layman. Thank you.

Chris

chrislo 12-09-2009 05:45 PM

I was thinking of blasting the draining pump/line with a Gallo Gun, think that will work? Any suggestions? :confused:

Gene 12-09-2009 05:49 PM

Chris,

There is no drain solenoids in your dishwasher. You may want to check the drain pump (#325 on the diagram). There is check valve (red flopper) in the outer pump tube which can cause drain stoppage.

The dishwasher has to be removed from the cabinet to access the part.

- The drain pump assembly Part number: AP3872950

Part number: AP3872950



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GLD4200L15CC Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

chrislo 12-10-2009 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene (Post 157344)
Chris,

There is no drain solenoids in your dishwasher. You may want to check the drain pump (#325 on the diagram). There is check valve (red flopper) in the outer pump tube which can cause drain stoppage.

The dishwasher has to be removed from the cabinet to access the part.

- The drain pump assembly Part number: AP3872950

Part number: AP3872950



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GLD4200L15CC Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

Thank you Gene. By remove from the cabinet do you mean I have to disconnect everything and totally pull it out? Or can I just pull it out a little with all the connections hooked up? I was hoping that I could just pull the pump out via the front access panel. One other question, how many screws are holding the dishwasher to my cabinets? When I open the door I only see two. One in the top right and left corner. Is that all?

Gene 12-10-2009 04:09 PM

The dishwasher has to be removed completely or at least 3/4 of it. I would turn off the power and the water line to the dishwasher and disconnect the water line from the dishwasher water inlet valve. Disconnection of the drain hose is questionable and you can do it later, if needed.

Usually there are two screws on the top of the dishwasher, secured it to the counter top.

Gene.

chrislo 12-11-2009 02:24 PM

Thanks Gene.

Gene 12-11-2009 03:05 PM

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

chrislo 12-11-2009 03:32 PM

Well I tried to pull out the dishwasher but with no success. I removed the screws but I have no way of gripping the dishwasher and pulling it out. Since the repairman will be coming soon to replace the gasket on the dishwasher we will just ask how much it will cost to have this part replaced. If it's too much we decided just to buy a new dishwasher since the dishwasher seems to be of low quality. We had so many problems with our GE appliances I have come to the conclusion that GE is making sub-standard products now a days. How the hell can a dishwasher have this many problems when it's only 3 years old? :confused:

notknowitall 10-06-2011 07:17 PM

cheers to that
 
Hey guys / gals,

Same issue here, cycle runs in every way correct but always seems to skip the draining step.

SO, I pulled out the whole washer, grabbed my tools and my voltmeter, and followed my nose. BTW, I am in no way saying this is something you should do, and it is very easy to zap yourself when you try to get into the guts of something plugged into your wall...

Anyhoo, the drain pump (no solenoid, and the flow-back check valve was clean) was getting very hot during the part of the cycle that should actually drain the filthy wash water.

I turned the washer's house circuit breaker off. Limits my chance of getting zapped...

I pulled the drain pump.

I disassembled it carefully. NO debris, actually was very clean. NO obstructions to turning the impeller inside.

SO looking at the pump's printed spec's I gave it what it likes: 115-120V AC (common US household power). It worked. Perfectly. In fact, it did not even heat up even after running continuously for an hour.

Re-assembled, plugged back in just as I found it. Ran a cycle.

This time I had my voltmeter clamped to the motor's terminals.

Sure enough, when the drain cycle hits the motor sits there and hummmms...only getting warmer.

I'm no wizard, but when I measure a voltage of 12-36ish volts when this happens (instead of closer to 115V), something tells me the motor controller is WAY OFF!!!

BTW - if you gently 'tap' the side of the motor when it is in this weird hung-up voltage it will run perfectly. I still don't blame the motor.

So, to you that know a lot more than me, would this be the board to replace?: Kit - Main & Tactile Bd ?

Or am I more crazy than normal?

Any input is appreciated.

Gene 10-07-2011 03:34 PM

You forgot to post the model number of the dishwasher. So, with such lack of info, I would check all wires and connections between the control board and the motor and, if there is nothing wrong, replace the control board.

Gene.


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