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since we bought this dishwasher the control panel has been replaced twice. Then it quit completely. A repairman found that

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2009, 10:35 AM
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Question dishwasher problems
Model Number: GU2500XTPQ1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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since we bought this dishwasher the control panel has been replaced twice. Then it quit completely. A repairman found that it was the fuse. that repair lasted maybe three weeks to a month. then it did the same thing again, so I took the fuse to be tested and it was bad so I replaced it. now only 2 weeks to the day the dishwasher is doing the same thing...nothing...no power...nothing. is there something that can be making these fuses blow? we live in a very humid area ...does this affect this? I still have yet to check out the door switch . my brother in law is going to check it out later today. I still need to know ..if it is the fuse ...what is causing it to blow? fuse part# is 8269213 Thankyou


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2009, 03:56 PM
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Default dishwasher probs

update...the door switches are ok. the fuse is bad again so something is drawing too many amps or whatever from somewhere else that causes it to fail. that question is beyond me . I am having problems with low water pressure on the hot side. I read that if you could not fill up a 2 qt. jug w/hot water in 14 seconds then your water pressure is too low . bye the way the last fuse only lasted 2 weeks to the day. I am going to work on the pressure problem but it still makes me wonder what the pressure problem has to do with the electronics.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2009, 03:49 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU2500XTPQ1 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208535451.pdf

the fuse is bad again so something is drawing too many amps or whatever from somewhere else that causes it to fail. that question is beyond me .
When the fuse was changed was it's harness also changed. If not that may be your problem.
Try to figure out when in the cycle it blew.
Check the motor windings for resistance, be sure to also check them to the case (ground), should be infinite ohms.
Check the wax motor's for resistance.
Check the motor capacitor. Unfortunately checking it with a meter is not very definitive as it is not being checked at it's operating voltage.
If all devices measure OK then it becomes a crap shoot unless you can get a clip on amp meter and check the current flow.

I am going to work on the pressure problem but it still makes me wonder what the pressure problem has to do with the electronics.
I do not think that they are related but stranger things have happened.
Check it with a meter for resistance to be sure it is OK, also check to it's body (should be infinite ohms).
Probably would not hurt to check the voltage at the valve.
Check your line voltage first then the valve voltage, they should be close.
The most common cause of low water levels is that the screen filter on the input side of the valve is partially clogged. If it is just clean it, do not remove it as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold the valve open and cause a flood.

Be sure to remove power from the unit when checking resistances.
Also always remove at least one wire from the device you are checking to ensure that you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
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