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Dishwasher failed to start with no previous symptoms. All LEDs operable except HEAVY cycle. Select options, press START, nothing happens,

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:26 AM
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Default Kitchenaid Dishwasher (KUD) troubleshooting
Model Number: KUDIO1ILBL6   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Dishwasher failed to start with no previous symptoms. All LEDs operable except HEAVY cycle. Select options, press START, nothing happens, then timeout (lights off). All LEDs light when on-board diagnostics started (soap drops, drain motor starts, RINSE light comes on, etc.). Ribbon cable from user interface clean (reseated). Control board fuse checks continuous. Voltage to fill valve (control board P2-3) checks 120VAC. No voltage to fill valve solenoid when START pressed. Appears to be control board. Are there other plausible faults that fit symptoms? Are there available information sources for checks, diagnostics or troubleshooting?
First post on list.
Thanks for your time.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2009, 04:15 PM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDI01ILBL6 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208564549.pdf

Voltage to fill valve (control board P2-3) checks 120VAC. No voltage to fill valve solenoid when START pressed.
Do not quite understand the above but it probably because of what you are measuring across so you are seeing 120 across the triac and not across the valve which should copen if it hade 120 across it.

If you look at the pin-out for the keypad, high temp and start and heavy all use P1-4 as a common perhaps your problem lies here. I would check it with a meter.

I do not know how you cleaned the connectors so you may want to try the following
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
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Old 11-23-2009, 05:06 PM
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denman,
Thanks for the prompt reply. I will clarify earlier message and pass along my progress since the initial post. The voltage check for the fill valve was made on the control board connector pins identified on a table I found on line. I checked voltage at the solenoid and there was none. Later I checked the resistance on the solenoid and it was within specs. As fate would have it, I ordered a control board this afternoon in hopes that it would be in by Thanksgiving. I flipped the breaker on the dishwasher, gave it one more try and it started up and ran a full cycle. (Rookie mistake does not come close to what I was thinking.) Other than removing the connectors to the solenoid to make a resistance check, I did nothing but re-run the on-board diagnostics and throw the breaker. All of the other checks were made previously and it would not start earlier today (2 tries). If this were a computer, I would guess that the hard reset reinitialized the microprocessor and cleared the fault state. Or I guess the second run of diags could have "unstuck" a sensor. Regardless, I do not have sufficient experience with appliances to even have an opinion. Do you have any idea what happened? Think I might need that control board in the future?
Thanks for your help. Have a good holiday.
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Old 11-23-2009, 05:48 PM
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Regardless, I do not have sufficient experience with appliances to even have an opinion.
I would not say that, sounds to me you have a pretty good grasp of it.

Do you have any idea what happened?

Lots of ideas but nothing concrete.
You are correct the powering off could have reset the board.
Removing power can also effect bad connections, strange but true. Also less likely than a board fault.
Which one it is is hard to say either one can drive a tech around the bend.
You could check the board for cold solder joints. These usually show up as being gray instead of silver or have pinholes (a magnifying glass helps here).
Sometimes you can wiggle the component and see its foot/wire move on the solder side of the board.
Could also be a component has gone intermittent or a voltage spike did something weird.
If it happens again just turn the power off/on. If it resets with just that then I would lean towards the board being bad.

Think I might need that control board in the future?
If I say no, you will need it.
If I say yes you will never need it.
Murphy's Law is very strong when it comes to electronics.
I would check the return policy where you purchased it from, the norm is about 30 days. Do not unpack it. Then if you do not need it return it before the return expiry date.

Have a good Thanksgiving.
Had mine a month ago and am glad I will not have to eat turkey again till Xmas.
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