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BMike74  
#1 Posted : Sunday, November 8, 2009 1:39:54 PM(UTC)
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BMike74

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I have a GE GSD 2030. My dishes in the upper rack were not getting properly cleaned (sandy residue). Ultimately, I thought I had the problem fixed after I:
manually spun the motor wheel,
cleaned out the drain (removed the grate and the second piece within), disassembled, reassembled and cleaned the float, and
manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.

However, now the dishwasher will not drain, at all, which is a new symptom. The solanoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place. HELP!!!!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, November 9, 2009 1:44:15 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are parts
Motor pump mechanism replacement parts for GE GSD2030F02WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Note: Your model number is short, tthe above parts are for a GSD2030F02WW. Hopefully is will be close to yours. To ensure you get the correct parts you will need the last digits from your unit.

manually manipulated the solanoid to make sure that it was working.
The solenoid springs still seem to be undamaged and in place


The solenoid springs will not give a no drain symptom. They are there to return the solenoid to the wash position.

Does the solenoid activate during a drain?
Is the motor running during drain?

The way it should work is that during drain the solenoid is activated for about 10 seconds, this pulls it's plunger down and switches the flapper valve to the drain position. The water pressure then holds the flapper valve in the drain position until the unit is empty (no water pressure on it), the springs then pull the plunger up and the flapper is now at the wash position.
Note that if the solenoid gets power for too long (re: timer contacts sticking), it will overheat.

Check that the solenoid has continuity.
If yes
Check that it is getting power when it should.

Could be you just have a loose wire somewhere.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
BMike74  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:07:47 AM(UTC)
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BMike74

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I do not believe that the motor runs during a drain, but can not tell, as I do not know exactly when the drain occurs. My assumption is that the drain should occur right before the dry cycle.

I also am not sure, but do not believe that the solanoid is activated. I sat with a flashlight watching the solanoid during the end of the rinse/beginning of the dry cycle and it did not move.

Further, upon additional consideration, I think what may have occurred is that when I was initially attempting to get the water to drain, I pulled off the grate in the back and pulled out the plastic piece. I also pulled on the rubber piece and for a moment broke the seal. I assume that water entered the pump mechanism in that way.

The question now is whether I attempt to replace the pump, or simply buy a new dishwasher. Further, if the motor and the pump require replacement, I assume that the cost of the new motor is more than the dishwasher (which is ten years old) is worth.

Any further thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Mike
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:41:27 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I do not believe that the motor runs during a drain, but can not tell, as I do not know exactly when the drain occurs. My assumption is that the drain should occur right before the dry cycle.
Yes, it should. It should also drain between cycles re: before the second wash if using a 2 wash cycle (pots & pans) also before a rinse cycle and sometimes a couple times during a rinse.
On many units the motor runs continuously during wash and drain.

I also am not sure, but do not believe that the solanoid is activated. I sat with a flashlight watching the solanoid during the end of the rinse/beginning of the dry cycle and it did not move.
Best way to check is with a meter. Remove power from the unit, remove the wires from the solenoid and check it with a meter, should be around 50 ohms. If open (infinite ohms) replace the solenoid. If OK plug it back in and run a cycle while checking across the solenoid for power to see if it gets 120 volts AC when it should. If it does not you may have a broken wire between the timer and the solenoid or your timer is toast.

I think what may have occurred is that when I was initially attempting to get the water to drain, I pulled off the grate in the back and pulled out the plastic piece. I also pulled on the rubber piece and for a moment broke the seal. I assume that water entered the pump mechanism in that way.
If the solenoid does not pull down this will make no difference. The unit will not drain without the flapper valve in the drain position. The piston & nut usually lets it drain some but not fully so you end up with water in the tub but some does go down the drain.

The question now is whether I attempt to replace the pump, or simply buy a new dishwasher.
I doubt it is your pump unless it is not running at all.
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BMike74  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:12:03 AM(UTC)
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BMike74

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So since the dishwasher runs, and washes dishes, but does not drain, you think that it may either be a broken wire or a bad solanoid?

Should I manually try to pull the solanoid down at some point while the machine is operating to see if I can get it to drain?


Thanks again for your help.
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:18:24 AM(UTC)
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denman

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So since the dishwasher runs, and washes dishes, but does not drain, you think that it may either be a broken wire or a bad solanoid?
Yes. Also could be the timer

Should I manually try to pull the solanoid down at some point while the machine is operating to see if I can get it to drain?
I would give it a try.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
BMike74  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 7:32:15 AM(UTC)
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BMike74

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I did try to pull the solanoid down the first night, and water started to leak onto the floor. I assumed that I was doing it at the wrong time. Should I try during the dry cycle?

I will test with a multimeter tonight. It appears based on what I read, that if the solanoid is bad, I can replace it for a bout 30-40 bucks. I assume that I am competent to do this job, I am fairly handy and can do simple plumbing and electrical work (install faucets, run wiring and install lights/fans, etc.)
denman  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 8:14:04 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I did try to pull the solanoid down the first night, and water started to leak onto the floor. I assumed that I was doing it at the wrong time. Should I try during the dry cycle?
This concerns me as it should never leak onto the floor but I guess we will see.

I assume that I am competent to do this job
If I can do it, you can do it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
BMike74  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:57:12 PM(UTC)
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BMike74

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Tonight I tested the solenoid with a "bulb tester" not a multimeter. It appears that there was no continuity (the light did not come on).

I did manage to unplug the wires from the terminal and not note which was hooked onto which side of the terminal. Any advice for identifying which wire to which terminal if I purchase a new solenoid?

At this point would you recommend a new solenoid?
denman  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:08:54 PM(UTC)
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denman

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At this point would you recommend a new solenoid?
Yes if it is an open it needs replacing.
Never used a "bulb tester" so am not sure how it works.
You may want to get the solenoid checked with a meter just to be sure.

It does not matter which wire goes to which connector on the solenoid.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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