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GE dishwasher won't heat - stumped

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Hi guys. A month or so ago, my wife told me that our GE wasn't drying dishes out as well

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2017, 07:59 AM
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Default GE dishwasher won't heat - stumped
Model Number: GDT530sp0ss   Brand: GE   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hi guys. A month or so ago, my wife told me that our GE wasn't drying dishes out as well as it used to. She said that we used to have steam coming from the vent, and now we didn't.

I took out all of the small and large particle filters and cleaned them thoroughly, and I took out the flood sensor and cleaned that up too - it had been jammed up and caked with lime. I checked the vent to make sure it was clear too. I dumped a cup of vinegar into the bottom of the dishwasher and ran it on Steam/ Heated dry.

I checked the water temp coming from the heater - 125 degrees..its a tankless system, so we get it quick.

The cycle ran, but the interior of the dishwasher wasn't very hot.

I ran the diagnostic mode - no error codes/lights.

I cycled through the tests as well - the unit fills and drains just fine. During the heater test, the element doesn't seem to heat up at all - the coil feels cool to the touch.

I unplugged and dismantled everything and checked resistance. The element ran about 23 Ohms resistance. The TCO under the tub looked fine (the red button wasn't pushed out) but I wasn't sure as to how to test resistance through it, the contacts to the wires are heat wrapped.

Next I tried to test the resistance in the main board pins. J711 pins 6 and 7 resistance readings were slightly below spec - about 4.5 K Ohms. The readings on J702 pins 1 and 2 hardly gave a reading at all unless I moved the multimeter nodes around quite a bit.

So I put everything back together again, ran the diagnostic and error codes modes and everything came up clear again. The coil still won't heat though.

Should I be looking to replace the main control board? Or how can I tell if the problem might be in the wiring harnesses themselves? Thanks guys!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2017, 02:41 PM
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Default

You can "ohm out" the TCO. The terminals are well secured with heat shrink, but they are just spade lugs and can be pulled off - don't pull the wires, use pliers and disconnect - should read zero ohms if okay.
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