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Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher - Cycles running too long

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I have a Kenmore ULTRA WASH dishwasher. Model # 165.29000 It is about six years old. The problem we seem

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2009, 09:50 AM
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Default Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher - Cycles running too long
Model Number: 165.29000   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a Kenmore ULTRA WASH dishwasher.
Model # 165.29000
It is about six years old.

The problem we seem to be having is the cycles seem to be running much longer than the time specified in the manual.

For example, I ran a normal wash the other night. Started it about 10pm, just before bed.
I woke up at around 1am and the cycle was still running. It was just a few clicks on the dial before the dry cycle.
According to the manual, the Normal wash should take approximately 98 minutes......

I did read that if the water is not hot enough, the heating element will come on to bring the water back to the required temp of 140 degrees.....and while the heating element is on the cycle timer stops....
My water heater is set at about 120-130 degrees, so I can understand the element needs to come on.....
but would it need to come that much that it would take nearly three hours to run, nt including the dry cycle?

Any ideas on what's the problem here?

Is the heating element bad?
Is there a thermostat that may be bad?

Thanks for the help.
mm


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2009, 02:39 AM
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Here is your tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203384557.pdf

Any ideas on what's the problem here?
Is the heating element bad?
Is there a thermostat that may be bad?

Only you can tell, I would just be giving a wild guess.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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