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mpetersrx7  
#1 Posted : Sunday, April 20, 2014 5:13:04 PM(UTC)
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mpetersrx7

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Joined: 4/20/2014(UTC)
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Well I am stumped at this point. Dishwasher stopped mid-cycle without releasing the detergent and water in the tub. Now it has no response to any keys and no LEDs.

I checked my fuse and it is working fine. I get power to the control board at P2, P4, P6, and P8 with the door latched. So fuse and latch to are working fine. Also ohmed out the latch at it is working. I have replaced the control board and still the same problem. I tried running the diagnostic with he keypad disconnected and unplugging and plugging in OW1 connector twice w/i 6 seconds and nothing happens. Tried it several times. I also tried the diagnostic mode with the keypad connected by hitting the heat dry->normal->heat dry->normal, and nothing happened.

What else could it be or what else can I try to help diagnose.

Thanks,
Mark
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, April 21, 2014 3:21:49 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KUDS02FRSS1 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.
By the sound of it you have this but I want to make sure we are looking at the same thing.

I get power to the control board at P2, P4, P6, and P8 with the door latched.
I do not know if the above is just a typo or where your meter leads were but there should not be voltage at P2 if the reference lead of the meter is on Neutral/ground as P2 is Neutral.
There should be 120 volts between P2 and P4, P2 and P6 and P2 and P8.
File Attachment(s):
KUDS02FR.pdf (244kb) downloaded 7 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
mpetersrx7  
#3 Posted : Monday, April 21, 2014 7:44:57 AM(UTC)
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mpetersrx7

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Hi denman,
Thanks for your reply. P2 and P4 are shorted together as I have the stainless model. As mentioned in the wiring diagram "(OTHERWISE SHORT CIRCUIT)". I traced the wire back on P2 and it it tied to the wire on P4, and I do get 120V on it to ground. This was the way it was wired when installed about 7 years ago. Both P2 and P4 are all white wires at the connectors.

Hope that helps,
Mark
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