dishwasher issues


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hi. I'm having issues with my Frigidaire FBD700BFC2 dishwasher. I have read a number of threads, here, maybe elsewhere, trying

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Old 12-23-2013, 06:10 PM
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Unhappy dishwasher issues
Model Number: FDB700BFC2   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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hi. I'm having issues with my Frigidaire FBD700BFC2 dishwasher. I have read a number of threads, here, maybe elsewhere, trying to narrow down the issue, but have not yet found it.

a while back, we found that the hi temp boost was not working. I forget now what it did/did not do, but we did find that if we turned temp boost OFF, it proceeded normally. (I think it acted like the timer was stuck - would not advance beyond a given point in cycle.)

so now that it has gotten colder (for us in Mississippi anyway, overnight temps in 40's, daytime temps 50 or so), the timer again acts as if it is stuck. it does not advance by itself thru the cycles. the dial on the front is not labeled to show me in what cycle it hangs/pauses, but it is at about the 7:00 position, maybe in the wash or rinse cycle.

I've noticed that the dishes do not always come out clean now - mostly clean but not like I think they should.

in reading something, I'm wondering if the problem might be the heater or heating element. since it seems to have begun acting up again since the temp has fallen, maybe that's what brought that thought to mind.

does anyone have any ideas on this? is there a way to measure resistance on the element? would that help me to find the problem? I've also wondered if the timer is the problem since it does not move thru the cycles like it should. but I also read that the timer is likely the most expensive part to replace, and probably should be considered last. so that's what I'm trying to do - consider other possibilities.

if it is the heater/heating element, a diagram I've seen looks like it is under the motor, pump or spray arms - would that be difficult for the average homeowner to replace?

thank you in advance for reading & your advice.

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Old 12-24-2013, 01:08 PM
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Default more info

more info - I noticed today when I went to start the dishwasher that the hi temp wash was on. I turned it off (no hi temp wash, normal temp), and it moved thru all cycles to dry without sticking & without me having to move the timer.

maybe this additional info will help someone help us out. thanks.
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Old 12-25-2013, 02:02 AM
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denman is a splendid one to behold

Here are your parts
Parts for Frigidaire FDB700BFC2 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet

I would start by checking the heater, should be around 20 ohms.
Then the high limit thermostat (item 29 in section 07), should be 0 ohms.
To check the heater you will probably have to pull the unit out from under the cabinet, so if you can get at the thermostat without doing this, check it first.

Then if you have the temperature options switch check those two thermostats.
Both should be 0 ohms.
They are shown is section 05 at the end of the list.
I do not know where they are actually located on the unit.

Idf you click on a part's picture or description a new page will open with more info about that part.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:38 PM
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many thanks denman! hope you & yours have had a very Merry Christmas! due to other demands on my time apart from the regular job, it may be a little while before I'm able to apply your suggestions. that said, I'm reading now, checking the tech sheet etc to see what I can learn about it in advance of doing the "heavy lifting" on the DIY stuff.

will post back when I learn more but wanted to go ahead & express my thanks for your time, advice, help & all that! many, MANY thanks!
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:57 AM
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ok, after having to replace my apparently cheap multimeter, and checking the links you sent, it looks from the wiring diagram that there is only one hi temp thermostat. tracing the lead shown on the diagram, I found what I think is the thermostat. one lead to it is burnt. photo attached. disconnected power to the dishwasher, disconnected both leads & checked thermostat for continuity & impedance. measures 0.2 ohm rather than the 0 ohm you mention if I'm checking the correct part.

also while I was there, decided to check for continuity on the circuit to this part - no continuity. granted, power is still off. this may be why.

so what do you think? replace thermostat? thank you very much.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2.jpg (25.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3.jpg (69.9 KB, 33 views)

Last edited by brandon42 : 12-31-2013 at 03:09 PM. Reason: add additional photo
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:08 AM
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Yes it looks like there is a problem at the thermostat.

I would replace it

The 0.2 ohms should not cause the connector to overheat so I would check that it is nice and clean (making good contact).

I am not sure how the plastic cover is held onto the connector.
Usually there is a tab on the back side of the metal connector that holds the cover on. This can usually be released by pushing a small screwdriver blade in to release it
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:33 PM
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grrrrr. ok, here's what I've realized. to this point I had not removed the existing part I tested that I thought was the thermostat. I was able to buy locally the p/n 154227808 from the parts list that says "thermostat, temp boots, hi temp wash."

having bought the hopeful replacement part, now I've delved into the replacement process. I removed the existing part I did test, I find it has p/n 154290204 that I did find on the parts list as a "thermostat, re-settable."

I'm not sure if replacing the 154290204 with the 154227808 will resolve my issues or not.

your thoughts on this? I'm doubtful it will since they ARE different parts. now that I have a little more info.

do you think replacing the 154290204 thermostat will resolve my problems? it is the one I did test, and the only one I've found so far. I'm not sure if it is the only one there is or not, but reading from the wiring diagram, following the red lead labeled on the diagram to the hi limit thermostat, that's where I found the 154290204. it is connected by the red lead that comes from the wire "wrap" that seems to come down from the timer & is wrapped inside the tubing to protect the wiring "harness". the red leads on this 154290204 connect the thermostat to the heater element.

I'm sorry. I don't do all this really well, in areas I'm not very familiar but I do appreciate all your help & advice. thank you.

resource links:

FDB700 tech sheet with wiring diagram (link you sent already):

parts list:
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Frigidaire FDB700 DW parts list.pdf (294.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: pdf Frigidaire FDB700 DW tech sheet.pdf (851.3 KB, 4 views)
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:05 AM
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I'm not sure if replacing the 154290204 with the 154227808 will resolve my issues or not.
No. They are different. You need the 204 thermostat.
The 204 is the hi-limit thermostat.
The 808 is a temp boost thermostat.

It would be nice if Frigidaire called their parts the same thing in all their documentation but I guess this is too much to ask.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:19 AM
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replacing the 204 thermostat did the trick! it took me quite some time to block out the time to do it, and then felt the need to test before posting this reply, but it now works like it should.

hi temp wash and rinse now both work like they should.

thanks very much denman! I appreciate your advice. you were spot on!!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:57 PM
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hello again. I noticed last night that it seems like my dishwasher ran FOREVER just before beginning the dry cycle. I did give in & bump the timer manually. I think this is the same thing it was doing last time.

I have not verified that timer seemed stuck yet (may have only been my imagination) nor tried switching any temp boost off, but I'm afraid I may be seeing a repeat of the same problem I asked about before, on the same dishwasher. on next use, I will watch more closely to see if it does in fact stick, and if so, repeat previous test scenarios -with temp boost off- as before, and see what we have.

IF in fact this does turn out to be the case - that I need to replace the same 204 thermostat as before - do you have any thoughts as to why it has failed again so soon?

reminder, and not sure if I called this out before: this d/w was installed new before I bought this house, probably summer 2012. so it's not that old by my standards. granted, it may not be the best, most solidly made there is, but it's what was here when I moved in.

thanks again all.
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