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Maytag Dishwasher Humming (starts washing then hums)
Model Number: MDC4650AWW1 Brand: Maytag Age: 1 - 5 years
These are the symptoms that I have been experiencing:
The dishwasher fills with water normally, then the wash cycle starts. It sprays water around for about 2-3 seconds then it starts to hum from the motor area and the spraying stops.
Sometimes after a few minutes(of humming) the dishwasher starts spraying water again (for 2-3 seconds).....but it goes back to that humming noise and stops spraying again.
During the humming I have opened the door to take a look what's going on inside. I notice that during the humming noise that water is coming out of the lower washer arm but it is very weak.
I have first replaced the water inlet valve valve:
06-Fill and Overfill Parts parts for Maytag MDC4650AWW1 - AppliancePartsPros.com (#2 in diagram).
After replacing this part the dishwasher actually worked for 1 wash. I felt like my dishes came out cleaner than ever!!!!.
I went to wash another load about 6 days later and then that's when the problem stated above returned. But I noticed something else that happened, it started to drain after about 2 minutes into the wash cycle (during the humming sound). It did this about 3 times and then it never did it again.
I decided to check the continuity of the (recently replaced) water inlet valve, I set my digital multi meter (DMM) to 200 ohms (which in this model on the 200 ohm setting only, has a "beeping" sound if there is continuity. To my surprise the water inlet valve did not have continuity (and no beeping was heard). I called the appliancepartspros.com and they sent me a replacement part right away.
When I got the replacement water inlet valve, I decided to check the continuity of the valve before replacing the part. Well to my surprise again! no continuity! (FYI check my DMM to see if it is working properly, and it is). Called into to appliancepartspros.com again made sure that this water inlet valve is supposed to have continuity, they said yes and replaced the part again.
OK, now when I received the part I did the same as before and checked for continuity...........and again.......no continuity!!!! Alright so now I thought to myself, am I doing something wrong here. Well what I did next was I set my DDM on the 2k ohms setting....well I got a reading of 1.103 (does this mean it has continuity?). I did this again for the 20K, 200K, and 2M and I got a reading for all of those settings. Now I am not an electrical expert for the record.....but I am thinking that this valve maybe working properly.
Called into appliancepartspros.com and asked for their advice. They said that it could be the motor. I purchased one, installed it and it's still not working (same symptoms....humming).
Called appliancepartspros.com again they said with my model number that there was a technical service bulletin about the wiring in the door that was shorting out with the adhesive on the insulation. Checked that, pulled the insulation and it appears that all of the insulation on the wiring is intact.
I had a hunch that it might be the control board. Ordered that, replaced it today and still not working with the same symptoms. At this point I am starting to get frustrated. I kind of like a challenge in problem solving but this is getting ridiculous! I have a lot of time and money tied up into this thing right now. I am starting to think that I should have called a repair person or trashed this dishwasher and purchased a new one.
If anyone can please help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance!!!!
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