Re: Whirlpool DU1100XTPQ3. Couldn't find tech sheet where it was supposed to be. What I'm looking for are the push button sequences to run diagnostics on the components so I can try to narrow down my problem. Problem has to do with flashing light. Not sure if it is door latch, heating element, sensor or what....Rick

Thanks much, denman....this should help....Rick

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Check the high limit thermostat. It should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
Then check the heater it should be around 20 ohms.
Check that the door switch (upper right corner on the wiring diagram) is closed. It is in the heater circuit.

You may be able to fix it without pulling the unit.
This is how I would do it
Unplug or flip the breaker off.
Set the meter to it's most sensitive ohms setting usually 200 ohms.
Remove the kick plate.
Most dishwashers are hard wired using wire nuts.
Remove the one connecting the white wires so you can use that as a test point.
Now put the other meter lead to one side of the hi-limit. You should be able to reach it. Then check the other side of the high limit.
If both sides read about 20 ohms (heater resistance) then odds are you have a control problem. I would check the wires that come down from the control board to the high limit and heater first just to be sure they are OK. Also see below.
If one side reads 20 ohms and the other is infinite then odds are that the hi-limit is toast. Remove one wire from it and measure across it, it should be 0 ohms.
If both side measure infinite ohms then the problem is either a bad wire, a blown heater or a bad door switch.
One thing to note is that a bad door switch may be a mechanical latch problem re: the switch is not being closed when the door is closed.

If all OK
Then check the thermistor, see the tech sheet. It's resistance drops with temperature increase.
IF OK then check the wires from the parts back up to the control board.
If OK then odds are the control board is the problem.

Just a side note as I get into this thing.....wife said that she ran the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle last night and everything seemed to work fine including the heating element ("everything was pretty hot when cycle completed").....Rick

Not a lucky day for you sounds like the unit may have gone intermittent on you OR perhaps a lucky day and it will continue to run.

You are sort of screwed trying to trouble shoot it if it is working OK.
Your readings look OK with one proviso, see below.

Could be that there was a control board problem and by removing power from the unit you reset it.

So here are possibilities if it starts acting up again.
1. Did you short the meter leads before starting your measurements to be sure 0.3 ohms is a real reading and not just a zero offset in the meter. Sometimes you can see a low resistance just because you cannot make perfect contact to the connector. But it also could also indicate a problem with the thermostat's contacts.
2. Did you notice any signs of overheating at any of the connections re: the wire insulation crinkled or discolored or a discolored connector. This would be an indicator of a bad connection which you may have corrected when working on the unit.

I will keep my fingers crossed that the unit keeps on working.