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Kenmore Elite Dishwasher - stuck - green light flashing

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Dishwasher new 2006 - dishwasher stopped - will not start. just sits. green (dishes clean) light flashing. (t was probably

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Old 04-28-2013, 08:52 PM
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Default Kenmore Elite Dishwasher - stuck - green light flashing
Model Number: 665.16273402   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Dishwasher new 2006 - dishwasher stopped - will not start. just sits. green (dishes clean) light flashing. (t was probably seven flashes pause repeat - not positive)

Ran diagnostics cycle . per tech info sheet found in lower kick plate. Ran ok.; ended with all lights out; seemed to be ready to run a regular load; controls seemed to operate normally. However I could smell burning plastic / insulation.

I pulled the control panel and found problems with electronic control board (PN 8564547 - item 11 on parts diagram). Relay K2 has started to melt / overheat. The circuit board at the base of the relay has turned color from tan to black and the back of the circuit board is melted and charred. This relay supplies power to the heater element. I plan to test that next. Thermal fuse on the control card shows zero ohms / ok continuity. I am somewhat disturbed it did not open. Duh. Looks like I was on the way to a fire. the bad relay - K2 "Potter & Brumsfeld T7CV5D-24 is starting to melt.

Note - Kitchen sink/dishwasher is long way from hot water heater. We always use high temp wash = on. Heated dry = off.

So - looks like I have to replace electronic control. I am considering new Thermal fuse kit 8193762. And probably heater depending on test results of that. I am expecting either a shorted heater or more likely a low value such as 4-6 ohms instead of the 10-30 ohms it should read (per schematic).

Any suggestions / recommendations.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2013, 03:36 AM
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Note - Kitchen sink/dishwasher is long way from hot water heater. We always use high temp wash = on. Heated dry = off.
Your problem may be due to this re: the heater is on for a much longer time than it would be normally as it tries to get the water up to temperature.
May even be that the board had a cold solder joint to the relay. The electricity sees this as a resistance so it heats up at that point which further degrades the connection which causes more heat and so on and so on till the connection fails.
Run the water in the sink which I am assuming is close to the dishwasher.
Check how long it takes to get hot. There is not much you can do if it takes an excessive amount of time. You could also check the temperature in the dishwasher just after a fill (before the heater comes on) to see how many degrees it has to heat the water up to You could try shortening the hot water supply line to the dishwasher but that may not be possible. You could insulate the hot water line to the sink/dishwasher from the tank.
Once the water is hot at the sink check it with a thermometer, it should be a minimum of 120 degrees F.

So - looks like I have to replace electronic control. I am considering new Thermal fuse kit 8193762.
I would replace this.


I am expecting either a shorted heater or more likely a low value such as 4-6 ohms instead of the 10-30 ohms it should read (per schematic).

I doubt you will see a problem here. The heater is basically a straight piece of resistance wire so cannot short to itself to cause a lower resistance or a short.

I would check the thermistor and make sure that the connections to it are nice and clean. As you can see it's resistance lowers as temperature rises so a dirty connection can cause the heater to run longer than it should.

Might also be a good idea to replace the hi-limit thermostat just to be safe.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:21 PM
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Default Replaced some parts

So de installed dishwasher. tested heater ok (13 ohms), tested Thermistor - (room temp and in hot water) - ok - 48k ohms @ 77 F & 12k ohms @ 140 F. tested Thermostat -ok - opens when real hot, closes when very warm.
Physical inspection. Other than the control board nothing looks bad. All wires and connections are clean neat and tight.

Duh - nothing bad? What is blowing the board? Why did the TCO NOT OPEN? Why was it willing to keep running after a reset?

Perhaps something is failing under load. So I replaced with new parts: Electronic control # 8564547; Thermal fuse kit # 8193762 (I did used the new wire harness), Thermistor # 8269208 and Thermostat # 661566. Ran diagnostics cycle. Ran for 15 min and finished. All lights out. Seems ok.

(NOTE I have no numeric display or front controls. Just three lights on the front. Operator controls are on top of door and are hidden when running.)

Have not yet run dish washing load. Will watch and see.

photos at Kenmore Elite flashing clean light - Minus

If you need I have PDF of the tech sheet that came with the dishwasher. Took digital photos and converted to jpg/PDF.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:58 AM
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Duh - nothing bad?
Yes everything also looks OK to me

What is blowing the board?
I cannot say.
I can give you a possibility.
A bad connection is a resistance to electricity and will heat up when current passes through it. This then degrades the connection causing more heat when there is current and so on and so on till the connection fails.
A long shot possibility is that the relay contacts pitted and was the bad connection. This is a long shot as in mots cases they would weld themselves together.
A more likely scenario is the solder connection on the board. If it was a cold solder joint that could be the cause. Also the relay actually moves a little every time the relay closes/opens so if the solder joint was not good it could come loose over time and you then have a bad connection.

In either of the above it sounds like the heater has to be on longer than is usual due to the long water line so although it should not cause the problem it will make the problem worse because your heater is on longer than what is normal.

Why did the TCO NOT OPEN?
Again I can only guess.
If the heat was localized away from the TCO it would not open.

Why was it willing to keep running after a reset?
If the relay was just causing an error re: the water is not up to temperature then resetting it would clear that error.

By the sound of it you have fixed the problem.
I would give it a week or so and then open it up and see if there are any signs of it overheating again.

If OK, then i would also do this after another month of running.
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