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clean light blinking 7 times; replaced heating element a year ago. about a month ago dishwasher was running and i

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Old 01-29-2013, 02:52 AM
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Default clean light flashing 7 times;
Model Number: du1100xtpt0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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clean light blinking 7 times; replaced heating element a year ago. about a month ago dishwasher was running and i heard a strange sound. I saw smoke coming from the right front and went over and turned it off. smelled awful. when i opened it up i found a cap to a dasani water bottle was under the heating element(don't know how it ended up in the dishwasher). So I thought it burned the element.

Replaced element again; now will not go through to the heat cycle; I know the water temp is good; tried a thermistor and that didn't work; luckily I bought the part from you guys so i was able to return it.; have done the diagnostics with heated dry, normal and also the heated dry, sani rinse. Still can't get it to go all the way thru.

One thing; when it does run for a while and I open it up I know the water is hot enough; the steam fogs my glasses, but the heating element is not hot to the touch.

If you have any other ideas please advise; I'm going crazy trying to figure this out.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2013, 04:02 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool DU1100XTPT0 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Check the hi-limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms.

If OK check white (Neutral) to P6 on the control board. Should be the heater resistance (10 to 35 ohms)

If open (infinite ohms) check that the heater element is OK.

If all OK then I would say that your control board is toast.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf DU1100.pdf (1,003.4 KB, 11 views)
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