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tprpap@cox.net  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:12:30 PM(UTC)
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tprpap@cox.net

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Joined: 1/24/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

No power to the washer at all-power supply is fine and I have ruled out the door switch parts.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 25, 2013 12:08:05 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GU980SCGQ2 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Could be that the thermal fuse (item 4 in the Frame and Door section) is blown.
If it is be sure to use the new harness that comes with the fuse when replacing it. Click on the parts picture for more info about it.

Could be that one of the door switches is bad or not closing.

Could be a bad connection from the power in point up to the control board.

Also may be a bad control board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
GU980.pdf (484kb) downloaded 4 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
GreatWhiteNorth  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 12, 2013 2:59:27 PM(UTC)
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GreatWhiteNorth

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GU980SCGQ2 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Could be that the thermal fuse (item 4 in the Frame and Door section) is blown.
If it is be sure to use the new harness that comes with the fuse when replacing it. Click on the parts picture for more info about it.

Could be that one of the door switches is bad or not closing.

Could be a bad connection from the power in point up to the control board.

Also may be a bad control board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Denman�� /|\ 8==D / \ �� ��
Just curious what the new wiring does with the thermal fuse. Mine popped twice in 3 months. The first time I said " these original connectors look fine, why cut perfectly good wires and scab on the new harness" so just replaced the fuse. Second time round I thought it best to read and follow the fine instructions. I have done that and so far so good. Back to my question, what does the new wiring harness do? Thanks so much for helping those of us with just enough knowledge to be dangerous. Ha. Your time and input is very much appreciated!
denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, February 13, 2013 1:01:17 AM(UTC)
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denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Sorry but I do not know.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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