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Inlet valve sourcing - hard to get a good unit

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The inlet valve went out on the DW - no continuity across the connection - so I source a new

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Old 01-18-2013, 06:41 PM
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Default Inlet valve sourcing - hard to get a good unit
Model Number: MDBB6650AWS   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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The inlet valve went out on the DW - no continuity across the connection - so I source a new inlet valve.

Installed the valve, all was well for two days. Then the inlet valve went out again.

Ordered a new valve from another source, but that valve was found to be out of the box, i.e. no continuity across the connections. Didn't even bother installing, so I ordered yet another valve, or rather the second seller sent me another valve to replace the earlier valve.

The new valve arrived tonight, again it was bad out of the box. No continuity across the connection.

For grins and giggles, here is a video of my testing procedure.

New valve, faulty out of the box - YouTube

Cliff notes:
Ordered three valves, one from one supplier and two from another supplier. The first valve worked for two days then went bad.

The next two valves were both bad out of the box, i.e. they were never installed as they checked out faulty right out of the box.

Questions?
Is something wrong with my testing procedure?

How in the heck can the QC be so pathetic on these inlet valves?

Where is the best place to get a valve that isn't bad out of the box?

Thank you for your time in these matters.

Mike


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 02:21 AM
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Here are your parts.
I believe your given model number is incorrect and it should be MDB6650AWS and not MDBB6650AWS

Parts for Maytag MDB6650AWS Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

The valve is Item 1 in Section 04, click on it's picture for more info on the part.

Is something wrong with my testing procedure?

Cannot say for sure but perhaps you were using too low of a meter scale when measuring them. For instance a 200 ohm scale will only measure to 200 ohms anything over that (approx) will show an open (infinite ohms)

How in the heck can the QC be so pathetic on these inlet valves?
Also cannot answer this but I doubt there is any real QC done on the valves.

Where is the best place to get a valve that isn't bad out of the box?
AppliancePartsPros but then I am prejudiced even though I am only a volunteer. I do know that they do not sell low quality knock offs also who else out there hosts a forum with no strings attached.

When/if you removed the first replacement vale did you check the filter screen on the inlet side. What can happen is that when you install a new valve you can knock/move the feed line. The crud on the inside of the line can come loose and clog the screen filter.

When you get a new valve. Check your line voltage and then check the voltage across the valve when it is filling. They should be close to each other. If not you may have a bad connection going to the valve or a bad control board.
If the valve voltage is low, also check across the overfill switch when filling. It should be close to 0 volts.
If not it could be that the switch is bad and is dropping voltage across it which then lowers the voltage across the valve.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:21 AM
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Default Appreicate the helpful advice.

I shall take a closer look at my testing procedure.

Additionally, I shall take a closer look at the voltage at the connector to the inlet valve the filter screen.

Again, I appreciate your reply and have a great day.

Mike
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:37 PM
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24 volts at the inlet valve when I turned on the dishwasher.

My meter was set to check continuity only and it shows no continuity across the connections.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:49 AM
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24 volts at the inlet valve when I turned on the dishwasher.
I am not sure if this unit starts to fill s soon as a cycle is started. Some units take a minute or two.
24 volts is low and so do the other checks I mentioned.
Could be just ghost voltage.

My meter was set to check continuity only and it shows no continuity across the connections.
I would use a standard resistance reading scale and increase it to be sure there is no continuity.
Unless you know what the meter determines is continuity.
For instances is 999 ohms continuity and 1001 ohhms not.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:19 PM
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Default More testing accomplished, not much was found.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
24 volts at the inlet valve when I turned on the dishwasher.
I am not sure if this unit starts to fill s soon as a cycle is started. Some units take a minute or two.
24 volts is low and so do the other checks I mentioned.
Could be just ghost voltage.

My meter was set to check continuity only and it shows no continuity across the connections.
I would use a standard resistance reading scale and increase it to be sure there is no continuity.
Unless you know what the meter determines is continuity.
For instances is 999 ohms continuity and 1001 ohhms not.
There is only 25v at the switch - so it appears that the control board could be bad.

I waited for 30 seconds for that voltage to occur.

As to the continuity check...the resistance across the valve is 912 ohms or 0.912 kohms, take your pick. :-)

Found the service manual...for the wrong unit.

Service manual

Back to the dishwasher...

Removed the inner door panel again to look at the wiring, this time I noticed a break in the insulation of a white wire...while looking even closer I noticed the end of a blue wire! The other end of the blue wire was discovered and then I managed to solder in a short splice into the blue wire to join the two ends. Then several layers of heat shrink tubing were applied for protection.

Will need to order a new wiring harness, if possible, for a more permanent fix.

Thanks again for your assistance.

Mike

Last edited by yosso : 01-30-2013 at 07:48 PM. Reason: wrong service manual - fixed the dang thing!
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