Kitchen Aid seems to have problem with control board or keypad
I have a Kitchen Aid KUDI01TJBL0 dishwasher (2001 model, I think)
All of the buttons/lights seem to work fine, but the 'Start' button doesn't do anything. The "Cancel/Drain" button DOES work, and will run the machine through a 2min drain cycle.
I opened things up and used my meter to test the following: thermal fuse, door handle latch switch, the water fill float switch, the fill valve, and the ribbon cable coming from the keypad. I didn't test the ribbon cable super thoroughly, but I put my my meter across the pins for the various buttons (using 'diode mode'), especially the 'start' button, and they all seemed to behave properly.
I was thinking it was a problem with the electronic control board, so I ordered part 8564543 from APP.
The new board arrived (although I'm not sure if it's really 'new' - it looked like it might have been used/refurbished). After restoring power to the machine, I found that some of the buttons didn't seem to work, but others did, and I was able to get the machine to start. It ran for a while, and almost seemed to get stuck in a bit of a 'loop' and then it stopped. The "Heavy" light was flashing and the water did not drain out. Pushing other buttons on the keypad would only result in other lights flashing. I was not able to cancel/drain the machine, or get the flashing lights to turn off. I turned off the breaker (for quite a while...10+ minutes) but as soon as I restore power to the machine it would turn on for a few seconds and then stop with the "Heavy" light flashing. I repeated this many times, each time turning the power off for longer.
Finally I turned the power off, removed the 'new' control board and put my old one back in, and restored power. I used the cancel/drain button to empty the water, and then I was able to run the machine through 1 complete cycle successfully!... but then it went right back into the original state (all buttons & lights seeming to work fine, including the cancel/drain button, but NOT the 'start' button.)
I swapped the two control boards back and forth a couple times, and was never able to get the machine to run through a cycle again. The original control board consistently results in all the lights/buttons working except for the 'start' button, and the 'new' control board tries to run the machine as soon as power is turned on, and then stops with the 'heavy' light flashing.
Sooooo, I'm thinking that either my original control board and the 'new' control board I received both have problems (albeit it different problems) or it's actually my console/keypad that is the problem. Or maybe something totally different?
Any help or advice would be GREATLY appreciated! I'm thinking I should try to test my console/keypad more thoroughly - testing every single pin/button combination on the ribbon cable, with polarities in both directions, to test the diodes - but I haven't found a great chart that tells me all of the mappings between buttons and pins.
fyi... I called the APP customer service number and they recommended that I try ordering the console/keypad (part 8270223) to see if that does the trick. They were *super* helpful and said that I can send back either part (or both) for a refund if need be.
I'll post an update after I get the console/keypad, in case this information is useful to anyone else searching this forum in the future with a similar problem.
Most likely it is the control panel/key pad. That should take care of the problem.
Attached to this post is the diagram for the keypad matrix from the tech sheet for my model.
I tested all of the 'button pushes' with my multimeter in diode mode, and they all seemed fine as follows:
P1-13 (+) -> P1-5 (-), push 'normal wash' => .78V
P1-13 (+) -> P1-4 (-), push 'Heavy' => .78V
P1-12 (+) -> P1-5 (-), push 'Rinse Only' => .78V
P1-12 (+) -> P1-4 (-), push 'Start' => .78V
P1-12 (+) -> P1-2 (-), push 'Cancel/Drain' => .76V
P1-11 (+) -> P1-6 (-), push 'Energy Saver Dry' => .80V
P1-11 (+) -> P1-4 (-), push 'High Temp Wash' => .79V
I also tested most of them with my leads connected with opposite polarity, and they did not show any reading (as would be expected, since the diodes should only pass current in 1 direction).
Now, my question is with regards to the 3 diodes that are shown all the way on the left side of the diagram - they are marked D6, D7, & D8. Based on the diagram, it would seem to me that my diode tester should always show a reading (without any button press) for:
P1-11 (+) -> P1-1 (-)
P1-12 (+) -> P1-1 (-)
P1-13 (+) -> P1-1 (-)
However, I don't. My meter shows 'overload' (open circuit) for all 3 of those connections. BUT, if I connect the leads in the opposite direction for P1-12 (-) -> P1-1 (+) then I do get a reading of .76V. The other two paths show 'overload' regardless of which way I connect the leads.
Is this indicative of a problem with the keypad/console, or is this expected behavior? Like I said, I really don't understand the purpose/function of those 3 diodes on the left side of the diagram - I suspect they might have something do with grounding?
I have a new keypad/console on the way from APP, but I'm just not sure that it is going to fix my problem. I'm still wondering if I might have 2 faulty control boards.
Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to provide!!
The new "control panel" (that's the front console, including the keypad buttons and ribbon cable) seems to have resolved the problem. I successfully ran 3 loads through the dishwasher, using the new "control panel" and my original "control board" (circuit board).
You are welcome,Joe.
I'm glad the problem is taken care off.
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