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Originally Posted by melissourgos ...Also, does this model have a module jumper?if so, I don't seem to have one... Which

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Old 10-24-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by melissourgos View Post
...Also, does this model have a module jumper?if so, I don't seem to have one...
Which part did you mean? If you meant the coding plug which should be plugged into the 9 connector then the answer is "YES", it must be there.

- The coding plug Part number: 167782

Part number: 167782



Quote:
...How exactly do I do that cause it's not very clear on the diagram and what kind of results am I looking for on the multimeter?...
Check for continuity between the RD-16-1 and the WHRD-e0-1 wires. The normal reading should show some low resistance.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2012, 04:32 PM
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The coding plug is missing. what is the effect of that?
Also, I did not get any measurement between the two wires.
Should I pull the unit out and check the heater? is there two elements or one in the heater? I see 3 wires going to it.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:18 PM
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Bosch did not say why but it says in all manuals and instructions that it must be there. I'm assuming that otherwise dishwasher would not work properly and it's possible to damage the control.

In order to verify the condition of the heater and hi-limit you can run the test program (page 9) and measure the current in the d/w main power line or just check each part separate as described on the same page.

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Last edited by Gene : 10-24-2012 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:35 PM
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so, the coding plug or jumper or wharever u want to call it, could be the whole problem. unfortunately the new control panel did not come with that instruction. oh well.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:01 PM
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when the water starts circulating during the test program it only pulls 1.1A, so I obviously have to check the heater, hi-lmit and flowswitch. Do I have to remove tank or block it up if I can reach in there? or thats the only way to access those parts? do you have documentation available like the one you gave me on the Motor? let me know - Thanks.
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melissourgos View Post
so, the coding plug or jumper or wharever u want to call it, could be the whole problem. unfortunately the new control panel did not come with that instruction. oh well.
Did you order the new one?

Before go further you have to finish with this one.

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Old 10-31-2012, 07:15 PM
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yes sir. and installed it.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:24 PM
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The instructions are attached to the post.

Gene.
Attached Files
File Type: doc heater and NTC.doc (28.5 KB, 5 views)
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:50 PM
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I could not download the info you sent me as of yet, but this is what I came up using a klein c1000 multimeter and a test light.
when checking the heater at all ohms settings i get .OL and the test lite does not lite up. will assume the heater element is not good.
testing the flow switch by closing the contacts, I get 0 at ohms and M ohms, but when I used the lite on the terminals, it does light up.

regarding the high limit: there are two set of wires: 2 red on the left and
2 green on the right. I removed the wiring and when I tested the 2 terminal where the green wiring goes I got 0.059 M ohms and 0.00 M ohms
between the 2 red wires. I did not remove it from the top of the heater and I am not sure if I checked correctly.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:56 PM
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When you do continuity test, your meter should be set on the lowest possible scale. Otherwise any results will be inaccurate.

Set the meter on the lowest possible scale and redo all tests.

Gene.
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