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blinking clean light - what to check next

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Old 09-21-2012, 08:24 AM
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Default blinking clean light - what to check next
Model Number: GU2700XTSYO   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I'm new to this forum and need some help on where to go from here on my repair of the Whirlpool Quiet Partner IV.
Aside from the familiar blinking clean light, the symptoms are that the dishes are not as dry or hot as they had been before the blinking light first started. And the plastics are just plain wet.
There was still water in the bottom of the dishwasher, so I cleaned out the chopper and drain assembly. It was pretty clogged, but I still get the blinking clean light even after clearing the code. The blinking lights return about every fifth load but all the loads are the same with dishes that are a little wet and plastics that are very wet. They are also not hot, kind of warm.
The heater element has a small blister on it. Could it be as easy as replacing the heater element? I just don't want to throw parts at the dishwasher.
Thanks, George


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2012, 09:39 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool GU2700XTSY0 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

. Could it be as easy as replacing the heater element? I just don't want to throw parts at the dishwasher.
Yes it could.
Remove power from the unit and one wire from the heating element.
Then measure the element with a meter, should be between 10 and 30 ohms.
You may as well also check the high limit thermostat, it should be 0 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf GU2700.pdf (244.2 KB, 2 views)
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:38 AM
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It was the heater element. All is hot and dry now. Thanks for your response to my question.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:05 AM
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You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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