[pyrman]

Maytag dishwasher model #MDB8600AWB,"rinse" button only will light,flash number 9 and then go off.Is the flashing 9 a code?Will not turn on.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB8600AWB | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual and tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16021814.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026390.pdf

Run the diagnostics.
Often a flashing light indicates a stuck key.
This is usually the keypad but can be the control board.
Only way to be sure is to check the keypad with a meter (see the tech sheet)

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[emanofoz]

The PDF files are almost exactly what I needed but my model MAYTAG MDB8600AWB (Quiet Series 300) Dishwasher, serial number 16450574CG, has 18 pins on the J1 jumper and I didn't find the technical materials behind the toe panel as was stated in the manual.
Please, I was hoping you could find the proper tech pdf's for my model/series. If you can it would help so much. I just replaced the control board last October (1 year ago) and I think the start button on the membrane is my problem this time.
Told my wife I'd spend the money to fix it one more time and if next year I have to do this again I'll opt for a new dishwasher and a different brand. (Sorry for the rant.)
Thanks again for being there for us out here.
Eman

Originally Posted by denman

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB8600AWB | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual and tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16021814.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026390.pdf

Run the diagnostics.
Often a flashing light indicates a stuck key.
This is usually the keypad but can be the control board.
Only way to be sure is to check the keypad with a meter (see the tech sheet)

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[denman]

Here is a different tech sheet that specifically lits the MDB8600AWB
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16023220.pdf

This is all that is available, well at least all I can find.

If only a couple keys are shot try the following:

Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

[emanofoz]

This sheet also only goes to 12 but I am thinking that they are only showing the points you are to test and not the other points which are not going to be tested anyway. What do you think? Thanks for replying so quickly.
Eman

Originally Posted by denman

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB8600AWB | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual and tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16021814.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026390.pdf

Run the diagnostics.
Often a flashing light indicates a stuck key.
This is usually the keypad but can be the control board.
Only way to be sure is to check the keypad with a meter (see the tech sheet)

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[denman]

they are only showing the points you are to test and not the other points which are not going to be tested anyway

Yes,they do not show the irrelevant ones for instance the lines used to power the display.