The wife let me know the dishes weren't drying at the end of the cycle and they cycles themselves were taking FOREVER. So, after some research, I figure the heating element or the contoller is bad.

I've tested the element with both wires off. The reading is 10 ohms. Good element so I've read.

Question is, I understand when you replace the element with this model, you also replace a circuit board. Could my circuit board be bad and the element good? Or does the new circuit board go with an improved element with a higher wattage?

I do not have a parts manual with my unit, so I don't know where the thermostat is to test it, nor do I know where to place the leads of my meter for testing on the thermostat. I do see a wiring diagram that shows the hi-limit thermostat connected via orange wire to the heater assembly.

I want to narrow this down as close as possible before I go and start replacing parts that may not be the problem. I'd really like to fix it myself as I'm not interested in dropping several hundred dollars for a new unit.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

Ok, tested resistance of thermistor at room temperature. It is in range.

Hooked everything back up and ran the Diagnostics Cycle. I first ran an Anti-Bacterial cycle to the thermal hold to get the water hot. The water was not hot. I expect all 30 minutes of the thermal hold would have gone by without any increase in temp. I touched the element. Not even warm.

I let some of that water drain. I poured some hot tap water straight into the tank. Ran the diagnostic cycle. The clean light didn't come on so the Thermistor checks out. No warning lights. Everything ran as it should, all except for the heater.

I'm at a loss here!