[rainforest]

Our Bosch SHU4022UC/U06 dishwasher problem is that water continues to fill during a segment of the cycle that fill should be off. We have compared function to the timer diagram for this model, so we know this is true.

When this filling continues, the drain will turn on periodically during a circulation segment presumably because there is too much water in unit. In other words, we have never had a leak due to this problem, its just that a wash cycle uses way too much water (fill may be on up to 40 minutes during 90 minute cycle.)

While the fill is running when it is supposed to be off, if we manually shut off the water and then turn manual value back on, the fill typically will then be off. It's as if the fill valve cannot shutoff if it has water pressure on inlet side. (Our house water pressure is low for norm). However, we have also noticed that the fill shutoff predominately fails when circulation is occuring. For those segments of timer when fill is the only event happening, the fill can shut off at end of segment. So this implies maybe pressure on outlet side affects it? Or perhaps voltage applied to water value is affected by unit powering circulation at same time?

We have checked the resistance on the water value, it is 980 ohms. That implies the water value is OK (according to Troubleshooting available on this site, should be ~1000 ohms). However the behavior sure implies that the water value is the problem.

We have checked, there is no debris in base affecting float switch.

Should we just replace the water value? Or could this have something to do with the float switch, timer, or voltage applied to water value leads? Are there any further troubleshooting tips to try? I could not find a repair manual for this older model.

[rainforest]

No one answered my question, so we just purchased a water fill valve (part #19 shown in the base diagram for this model), and this solved the problem. Hurrah!

Once we had the old valve removed, we noticed it was possible to blow a small amount of air through the closed valve. With the new valve, this was not possible.

The repair was easy to do, just remove the front kickplate panel, disconnect water supply, remove a couple screws, wiggle the valve out of its slot, change the electrical and back water connection, and then reverse all that to put it back together.

Dishwasher now runs great, after a $35 part and 15 minutes of repair.