[Tru2Chevy]

First things first, I am only guessing on the age of the dishwasher. I've only lived in this home for 1 year, and most of the other appliances are about 5-6 years old, but I am not sure about the dishwasher.

Starting last night, my dishwasher won't fill with water when I attempt to run the wash cycle. It sounds as if it is running normally, and I can see the pump shaft spinning from underneath when I turn it on. When I ran the full cycle overnight last night, the inside of the washer was hot, but the dishes were still dirty and dry (we don't use the heater to dry the dishes).

This is my first home and I would like to avoid having to call a repairman to come in. I spoke with my father on the phone and he mentioned checking the water intake valve / solenoid. Would this be where a 1/4" or 3/8" copper line from the hot water plumbing connects to the dishwasher? If so, how would I go about checking it?

I am a pretty handy person and have a good assortment of tools, but this is my first time working on a dishwasher.

Thanks!

[denman]

Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB4000AWW | AppliancePartsPros.com

First check that the float is not stuck in the up position.

Next check with a meter to see if the valve is getting power when it should (120 volts AC)

If not check from the white on the valve to the far side of the float switch to see if the timer is putting out voltage.
If not the timer is probably shot.
If yes, check just across the float switch if it has 120 volts across it when not activated it is shot (Normally Closed contacts are not closing).

If valve has voltage across it but no water is flowing it can be one of two things.
1. The valve is shot
2. The filter screen on the input side of the valve is plugged. Remove the valve and clean the screen. Do not remove it as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which would hold it open and cause a flood.

[Tru2Chevy]

Thanks for the help.

The float seems to be fine, and the valve is showing ~6v flowing across it when running. There is also ~6v from the white on the valve to the far side of the float switch. When the float switch is closed it has no voltage flowing across it, when activated it shows ~1.7v

I'll be taking off the valve next to see if the screen is blocked...if not I guess it's time to order a new valve, correct?

::edit:: Removed the valve, screen is clear.

- Justin

[denman]

The float seems to be fine, and the valve is showing ~6v flowing across it when running. There is also ~6v from the white on the valve to the far side of the float switch. When the float switch is closed it has no voltage flowing across it, when activated it shows ~1.7v

There is a problem with the above, you should see 120 volts.

Do the following again but with the valve disconnected. Basically you will be checking if the timer is putting out the correct voltage.
This will eliminate the valve as a cause for the low voltage reading you see.

If the voltage is no good I would say that the timer is shot as the motor and other devices work, re: the timer contacts for the water valve are not closing.

You could check this by checking the contacts using ohms across them with the power removed from the unit.

Depending on the condition of the unit it may not be worth putting ~$120.00 into it.

[Tru2Chevy]

So, I just wasn't paying enough attention to what part of the cycle it was in when measuring the voltage. Went through it more carefully this morning, and saw that the valve was indeed getting 120v. I was able to find one locally and installed it. Works like a charm again!

Thanks again for the help.

- Justin