[ChicagoTom]

I have read several posts and I’m not sure if they apply to my Whirlpool Dishwasher.



The dishwasher is a Whirlpool Gold Quiet Partner Model GU980SCGB0.


From what I’ve read it seems the likely defective part is the Control Panel (Whirlpool Part No: 8051189 & 8051133) and not the Control Board (Whirlpool Part No: 8051136). Is there a way to test which part may be the one I need to replace.

Thank you all in advance…

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU980SCGB0 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

First I would try removing power from the unit for a couple minutes to see if the control board will reset.

Next try cleaning the connections between the control board and the control panel (keypad).
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If still no go, check the keypad with a meter. They do not give a matrix on this so you will have to figure out the keys.
For instance the Normal Wash is P1-4 to P1-13.
Note: the circuit has a diode in it so the diode has to be forward biased for the switch to work. On diodes the current flows into the arrow and current flows negative to positive.
So with the negative meter lead (black) on P1-4 and the positive meter lead (red) on P1-13) the resistance should drop when the Normal Wash key is pushed. Use a 20,000 ohm meter scale to start with just to be sure you have enough meter voltage to forward bias the diode. You can then reduce it as long as you can see the resistance change with the pushing of the button.

If you reverse the meter leads then you should not see a resistance drop when the button is pushed.

Then if the keypad checks out OK I would replace the control board.
Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.

[ChicagoTom]

Thank you very much denman for all the information and the Tech Sheet. I’ll try this out today.